|
|
Summer
| |
Companion
Planting for Garden Harmony |
|
| What
is companion planting? |
| Throughout history, gardeners
have noticed that certain plants grow better
when planted near others. For selected vegetables
and flowers, the vigor, flavor and productivity
are improved. Not only can they improve
the quality of the plants but, if planted
near the wrong plant, the opposite effect
can happen and the plants can become stunted
or die. Companion planting also plays a
role in deterring pests and attracting beneficial
insects that prey on the pests. |
| |
What
causes these reactions? |
| Plants excrete hormones
known as allelochemicals. Chemicals are
released that members of the same specie
can recognize and understand as a message.
Members of other species understand these
messages also, though it may be a different
message.
For this reason plants that are mixed
in and amongst plants of a different family
often do better than mass plantings of
the same plant. This technique called
intercropping encourages the reduction
of major pest outbreaks and loss of crops.
In nature, rarely is there an area covered
with only one plant. Instead, there are
several different types of plants grown
together that diversify the land and make
plants and animals happy, providing purpose
to each living thing. Plant aroma and
pollen also play a role in the attraction
of certain insects to a plant that may
either aid in plant reproduction or possibly
damage the plant. |
| |
Crop
rotation |
| Another example of companion
planting is to keep in mind the rotation
of plants from season to season. Rotating
crops that are considered heavy feeders
with plants considered light feeders is
a good way to ensure proper nutrients are
returned to your soil. Heavy feeders are
corn, tomatoes, squash, lettuce and cabbage.
Heavy givers are all nitrogen fixing legumes
like peas, beans, alfalfa, clover and vetch.
The light feeders are all root crops such
as turnips, sweet potatoes, and also green
peppers. This sequence of heavy feeders,
heavy givers, then, light feeders can ensure
the soil gets the rest and nutrient build
up it needs to sustain your vegetable growing
love!
Another thing to consider when planting
your crops is the amount of sun or shade
needed for each plant. Taller plants such
as corn or sunflowers can serve as a means
of shade for shorter plants during the
hot afternoon hours. |
| |
Companions
and Antagonists |
| |
Companions |
Antagonists |
| Asparagus |
Tomatoes, parsley, basil |
|
| Beans |
Potatoes, carrots, ucumbers,cauliflower,
cabbage, summer savory |
Onions, chives, garlic
gladiolus |
| Bush
Beans |
Potatoes, cucumbers,
corn,
strawberries, celery, summer savory |
Onions |
| Beans,
Pole |
Corn, summer savory,
sunflowers |
Onions, beets, kohlrabi
cabbage |
| Cabbage
family
(cabbage, cauliflower, kale,
kohlrabi, broccoli) |
Potatoes, celery, dill,
chamomile, sage, peppermint, rosemary,
beets, onions |
Strawberries, tomatoes,
pole beans |
| Carrots |
Peas, leaf lettuce,
chives, onions, leeks, rosemary, sage,
tomatoes |
Dill |
| Celery |
Leeks, tomatoes, bush
beans, cauliflower, cabbage |
|
| Chives |
Carrots, tomatoes |
Peas, beans |
| Corn |
Potatoes, peas, beans,
cucumbers
pumpkins, squash |
|
| Cucumbers |
Beans, corn, peas,
radishes, sunflowers, lettuce
|
Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
| Eggplant |
Beans, potatoes |
|
| Leeks |
Onions, celery, carrots
|
|
| Lettuce |
Carrots, radishes,
strawberries,
cucumbers, onions |
|
| Onions |
Beets, strawberries,
tomatoes, lettuce, summer savory,
leeks, chamomile |
Peas, beans |
| Parsley |
Tomatoes, asparagus
|
|
| Peas |
Carrots, turnips, radishes,
cucumbers, corn, beans |
Onions, garlic, gladiolus
potatoes, chives |
| Potatoes |
Beans, corn, cabbage,
horseradish, marigolds, eggplant
|
Pumpkins, squash, cucumbers,
sunflowers, tomatoes, raspberries |
| Pumpkins |
Corn |
Potatoes |
| Radishes |
Peas, nasturtiums,
lettuce cucumbers |
|
| Soybeans |
Loves everything, and
everything loves it |
|
| Spinach |
Strawberries |
|
| Squash |
Nasturtiums, corn |
Potatoes |
| Strawberries |
Bush beans, spinach,
borage lettuce, onions |
Cabbage |
| Sunflowers |
Cucumbers |
Potatoes |
| Tomatoes |
Chives, onions, parsley,
asparagus
marigolds, nasturtiums, carrots |
Kohlrabi, potatoes fennel,
cabbage |
| Turnips |
Peas |
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Basil |
Companion to tomatoes, improves growth and
flavor, repels flies and mosquitoes |
|
Bee balm |
Companion to tomatoes, improves growth and
flavor |
|
Borage |
Companion to tomatoes, squash, and strawberries;
deters tomato worms; improves growth and
flavor |
|
Caraway |
Loosens soil |
|
Catnip |
Deters flea beetles |
|
Chamomile |
Companion to cabbage and onions; improves
growth and flavor |
|
Chervil |
Companion to radishes; improves growth and
flavor |
|
Chives |
Companion to carrots; improves growth and
flavor |
|
Dill |
Companion to cabbage; dislikes carrots;
improves growth and health of cabbage |
|
Fennel |
Most
plants dislike it |
|
Garlic |
Plant near roses and raspberries; deters
Japanese beetles; improves growth and health |
|
Henbit |
A common garden weed; general insect repellent |
|
Horseradish |
Deters potato bugs |
|
Hyssop |
Deters cabbage moths; companion to cabbage
and grapes. Keep away from radishes |
|
Lemon balm |
Helpful throughout the garden |
|
Lovage |
Improves flavor and health of plants |
|
Marigolds |
Pest deterrents, discourages Mexican bean
beetles, nematodes and other insects
|
|
Marjoram |
Improves flavor |
|
Mint |
Companion to cabbage and tomatoes; improves
health and flavor deters white cabbage moths |
|
Mole or gopher plant |
Deters moles mice and gophers |
|
Nasturtiums |
Companion to radishes, cabbage, and cucurbits;
plant under fruit trees deters aphids, squash
bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles; improves
growth and flavor |
|
Peppermint |
Repels cabbage butterflies |
|
Petunia |
Protects beans |
|
Pigweed |
Good for putting nutrients in the soil,
good for potatoes, onions, corn keeps weeds
thinned |
|
Calendula |
Companion to tomatoes, deters asparagus
beetles, tomato worms and other garden pests |
|
Rosemary |
Companion to cabbage, beans, carrots, and
sage; deters cabbage moths, bean beetles,
and carrot flies |
|
Rue |
Keep away from basil, plant near roses and
raspberries, deters Japanese beetles |
|
Sage |
Plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots;
keep away from cucumbers. Deters cabbage
moth and carrot fly |
|
Sow thistle |
In moderation can help tomatoes, onions
and corn |
|
Summer savory |
Plant with beans and onions; improves growth
and flavor; deters bean beetles |
|
Tansy |
Plant under fruit trees; companion to roses
and raspberries deters flying insects, Japanese
beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash
bugs, and ants |
|
Tarragon |
Good throughout the garden |
|
Thyme |
Deters cabbage worms |
|
Valerian |
Good throughout the garden |
|
Wormwood |
Keeps animals from the garden |
|
Yarrow |
Plant along borders, paths, and near aromatic
herbs; enhances essential oil production |
| Jeavons,
John. How
to Grow more Vegetables.
Berkeley California: Ten Speed Press,
1974 |
|
|
| |
KIWI’S
FOR THE HOME GARDEN |
| |
| Originally from China and known
as “Chinese Gooseberries”, these fast
growing deciduous vines found their way to California
from New Zealand in the early 1900’s. They
became known as the “Kiwifruit” due
to the fruits’ similar appearance to New
Zealand’s national bird, the Kiwi bird,
which is brown, fuzzy, funny-looking and round.
The vines of the kiwifruit are either male
(bearing only male flowers) or female (bearing
female flowers and fruit). We currently carry
the Kiwi-Fuzzy All-Purpose males
and the Kiwi-Fuzzy Hayward females.
One male can pollinate up to 8 females. The
Hayward female requires 600 hours of chilling
hours and the All-Purpose male requires 800
hours. A vine can take up to five years from
planting to produce flowers or set fruit. Be
patient - these unique vines are well worth
the time.
Plant kiwi in well-drained soil in full sun
or partial shade and plant your vines on a mound
or bed slightly higher than the surrounding
area so water will drain away from the trunk.
Vines can grow to 30 feet long and will need
sturdy supports, such as a trellis, an arbor,
or a patio railing to grow on. By erecting the
right structure for plant growth, you will ensure
easier access to your vines for training, pruning
and fruit production for years to come. Protection
from the wind is also important because breezes
of 10 to 15 mph or strong gusts can break developing
shoots and reduce vine growth and production.
Hot, dry air can wilt vines, scar fruit and
leaves and cause fruit to drop.
To establish kiwi, you need good soil drainage
and adequate water. Watering is one of the keys
to growing kiwi vines. Lack of water, especially
during periods of growth, results in wilting
and the appearance of burned and/or brown curled
leaves. In hot weather you will need to water
three to four times a week for vines three years
old or younger, and twice a week for older vines.
Water deeply, insuring that the entire root
ball receives water at each watering. You may
use a hose, a drip system, or mini sprinklers.
Overhead watering is not recommended as the
fruit is susceptible to staining from salts
and minerals in the water.
In fall, harvest fruit while it is firm and
let it ripen off the tree; fruit left on the
vine too long will spoil or be eaten by birds.
Start harvesting when the first fruits just
start to soften or when fuzzy kiwis turn from
greenish brown to fully brown. For prolonged
storage (up to 8 weeks), keep the fruit uncovered
in your refrigerator’s crisper. Fruit
may also be placed in sealed plastic bags in
the refrigerator. To hasten ripening, put an
apple or a banana in a bag with the kiwifruit
and leave them at room temperature for a few
days, until soft.
During the dormant season (December through
February), prune the female
vines for form and fruit production. Cut back
to one or two main trunks and remove closely
parallel or crossing branches. Fruit
is borne on shoots from year-old or older wood;
cut out shoots that have fruited for three years
and shorten younger shoots; leaving three to
seven buds beyond the previous summer’s
fruit. In summer, shorten overlong shoots and
unwind any shoots twining around main branches.
Male
vines are pruned differently than female vines.
Winter pruning in male vines consists of cutting
out twisted, dead, or weak canes but leaving
most canes 3-5 feet long. Because the male pollenizer’s
sole purpose is flower production, you can prune
it back drastically after it blooms. After flowering
and pollination in May, male vines are cut back,
leaving short, new canes to spread on the trellis.
New growth soon appears and will grow and produce
flower buds for the next year.
Kiwifruit has been found to contain more vitamin
C than oranges, more potassium than a banana
and is the most “nutrient dense”
of all major fruits. Kiwifruit is now ranked
as one of the ten most nutritious fruits. In
addition to vitamin C and Potassium, kiwis contain
Folate, Copper, fiber, vitamin E, Manganese,
Chromium and Lutein.
Kiwifruit can be enjoyed many different ways;
some people just slice them in half and scoop
out the fruit, and some eat it like an apple,
fuzzy skin and all. Try topping a bagel and
cream cheese with the beautiful emerald green
slices, add to fresh fruit blender drinks, garnish
on pies and cakes or how about a peanut butter
and kiwi sandwich? Kiwifruit is very versatile,
use your imagination and enjoy.
Despite remaining a relatively small agricultural
industry consisting of around 300 growers who
farm around 13 acres each. California produces
about 98% of the kiwifruit in the US. There
is a California Kiwi Fruit Commission located
in Fresno, California which has a very informative
website: www.kiwifruit.org
with information ranging from the history of
the fruit, types of trellis’s, pruning,
recipes and a children’s section.
As with anything worthwhile, you need to expend
a little time and effort, but the rewards will
be ever so sweet. |
| |
|
|
CREATING
A WILDLIFE HABITAT IN YOUR YARD |
| |
|
| |
| As the human population increases,
the natural habitat for many creatures decreases.
There are many simple and inexpensive ways to add
beauty and interest to your yard, while providing
a safe place for small animals and beneficial insects
to live and raise their young. Much information
on creating wildlife habitats is available on-line,
in books and articles, and on television.
A Habitat is an environment that provides food,
water, shelter and a place to raise young. Some
of the reasons to create a wildlife habitat include
supporting local wildlife year round, especially
during winter months; broadening your knowledge
of gardening as well as wildlife, so you can share
this knowledge with others; an opportunity to
view wildlife such as hummingbirds, song birds,
butterflies, dragonflies and many other beautiful
and interesting creatures from the privacy and
comfort of your own yard; and increasing the value
of your property, as well as adding beauty and
interest to your yard.
You don’t need a lot of room to create
a wildlife habitat, and you don’t need to
do it all at once.
Often, it’s fun to add habitat environments
a little bit at a time, and watch the environment
evolve. Before you begin, it’s useful to
decide what type of wildlife you wish to attract.
Research the subject to learn what type of environment
is needed for the wildlife you select. Assess
your landscape, decide what you have, what you
want to change, and what you need to add. |
| |
CREATING
A HABITAT FOR BUTTERFLIES |
| |
| Adult butterflies need nectar
producing plants. The flowers of these plants are
usually flat-topped, brightly colored, with short
flower tubes. Some excellent choices are yarrow,
phlox, verbena, lantana, viola, coreopsis, purple
coneflower, asters, buddleija (butterfly bush),
milkweed, and black-eyed Susan. Plants in sunny
locations generally produce more nectar than those
receiving less than six-hours of sun. Butterfly
larvae need host plants such as milkweed, buddleija,
mallow, nettle, dill, parsley, fennel, blackberries,
cabbage, blueberries, willow, privet & viburnum.
The water needs of a butterfly
are fairly simple. All that is needed is a damp
spot so the butterflies can land and drink from
puddle water. A saucer filled with sand and water
is perfect. Or try a birdbath with small gravel
or decorative rock covering the bottom, filled
until the water level is just below the tops of
the rocks. Butterflies also need a place to bask
in the sun. A smooth, dark river rock placed in
the center of your water feeder works well. A
small space for shelter is all butterflies need
– an old log, peeling bark, an old fence
pots, etc. |
| |
CREATING
A HABITAT FOR HUMMINGBIRDS |
| |
Hummingbirds are nectar feeders,
but they also consume insects and spiders for protein.
Hummingbirds receive most of their nectar requirement
from flowers. Some great flowers to attract hummingbirds
are agastache, columbine, abutilon, buddleija, heuchera,
salvia liatris (gay feather), monarda (bee balm),
honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, red hot poker, lantana,
bottlebrush and citrus, just to name a few.
If you would like to add a nectar
feeder, here are a few guidelines for
the health and safety of the hummingbirds: |
| |
A one-part sugar/four-parts
water mixture seems to be the best. There
is no need for red food coloring. |
| |
Place feeders
throughout your yard, not too close to the
fence, in order to protect the tiny birds
from predators. |
| |
Clean feeders
regularly, especially on warmer days, using
warm water. If mold is present, clean with
denture cleaning tablets. Soak overnight and
rinse with water. |
| |
Hummingbirds
burn a lot of calories, so feeders with a
perch gives them a place t rest
while feeding. |
| |
|
|
| Hummingbirds get most of
their food from nectar, however they do enjoy an
occasional shower from a mister or fountain. They
also like a birdbath with pebbles and water for
drinking and bathing. Hummingbirds
need a place to perch, close to their food source.
Small trees and shrubs are usually sufficient.
A nesting female will need cover around her perch
and nest while she is away feeding. Hummingbirds
use a variety of nesting materials, including
leaves, lichens, spider webs, and other plant
materials. They usually build their nests on horizontal
branches, protected by over-hanging limbs. |
| |
CREATING
A HABITAT FOR SONGBIRDS AND OTHER BIRDS |
| |
| Most birds are seed and insect-eaters.
Placing feeders around your yard provides safe places
for different species of birds, prevents over-crowding,
and keeps cats and other predators guessing.
Bird baths are the easiest
way to provide water. These, too, can be placed
in a few different locations about your property.
Change the water daily to prevent molds and mosquitoes.
Avoid adding chemicals to the water. Many birds
benefit from birdhouses and nesting boxes. Depending
on the types of birds you have in your area, you
can easily provide what they need to raise their
young.
|
| |
CREATING
A HABITAT FOR TOADS |
| |
| Kids enjoy making something
called a “toad abode.” To make one,
get a medium-size clay pot and saucer. Put the saucer
on the ground and keep it filled with water. Nearby,
put the pot upside-down with an edge resting on
a rock. This makes room for a toad to fit through
and hide inside. If you have a broken pot with a
chunk missing at the rim, you have an abode with
an instant doorway – no need to prop it up.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HABITATS, look up “Habitat”
on your computer search engine or visit the following
websites: www.nwf.org
and www.hummingbirds.com.
|
| |
SAFE
GARDENING WITH CHILDREN AND PETS |
| |
| We all have such a love for gardening
– it’s healthy for the body and soul.
Gardening chores help keep us physically fit. And,
your heart can’t help but smile when that
dormant tree pops out new blooms or those seedlings
break through the ground.
There are so many things to consider when planning
our gardens and landscaping. Light requirements,
size and shape of any given plant, color,
flowering times and so on. Another
consideration that we may sometimes overlook unintentionally
is what plants may be toxic to our children
and pets.
Pets can sometimes be destructive. Sometimes,
they’ll accidentally get into places and
things they shouldn’t. When dogs are bored,
they will chew on most anything. They’ll
graze on grass when they have an upset tummy.
Same goes for cats . . . it’s part of their
natural make-up. Horses always
think “the grass is greener on the
other side of the fence”. We humans
sometimes think that, too!
And children – well, they
are naturally curious and often mischievous. Sometimes
those pyracantha berries are irresistible. If
a young child has experienced the joy of picking
blackberries, how can they be expected to differentiate
between good berries and poisonous ones?
People who love pets and gardening can have both,
with a little common sense and careful use of
child-safe and pet-safe plants and chemicals.
The first good sense rule is not to plant
anything that’s toxic to people or animals.
Toxicity can relate to the size of the child or
animal and the amount of material consumed. It’s
best just to avoid that which may be harmful.
On the flip side, there are many, many plants
that are non-toxic that will enhance our gardens
and keep our children and pets safe as well.
Another issue to consider is chemicals.
Ingredients in herbicides, insecticides and soil
amendments can be toxic. If a product contains
toxic chemicals, package directions are required
to say so. We recommend careful reading of all
product labels. Some people think that going organic
is safe, but that’s not always the case.
For example, Cocoa
Mulch, a great ground cover for
your garden beds, is toxic to dogs and it’s
something they find attractive.
And while adding bone meal to
your soil can add beneficial nutrients to your
growing areas, dogs do like bones.
Generally they won’t eat enough to cause
a problem unless they get into a bag of it. But
problems with this product have occurred, so consider
your situation carefully before deciding to use
certain products in your garden. Coffee grounds,
a good organic fertilizer, is not good for your
pets. Most times, our pets won’t seek out
these poisonous plants, but it is nice to know
to be aware of them.
Many common plants, bulbs, or seeds can be dangerous
if ingested or can cause external reactions. The
Sunset Western
Garden Book indicates if a plant
is poisonous in any way.
Again, always read the information on product
labels, and if you have concerns, call the company
hot-lines listed on the labels.
If you suspect your child or pet may have ingested
a poisonous plant, contact your pediatrician or
veterinarian immediately. Or call Poison Control
at the numbers below: |
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| |
| |
New
Heights for Your Garden
|
Written by
George Winter and Ellen Brammer |
| |
If your landscape
is feeling flat and you are ready for a
change, you might try giving your garden
a vertical lift. The
possibilities are endless - from a simple,
inexpensive trellis to the all out drama
of a vine covered pergola or a tree-lined
alley. With some careful thought you can
reflect your own sense of style to your
vertical garden.
Tools for adding vertical dimension include
statuary, pottery, arbors, and lattice trellises.
Trees, vines, and perennials can compliment
or even substitute the structural height.
Wrought iron is very popular right now.
There is a wide variety to choose, from
the small and simple obelisk to full size
gazebos.
There are many simple ways to “raise”
some interest in your garden. Invert an
empty pot and place another container on
top, planted with low growing plants for
filler, and some ground cover that trails
down the sides. These plantings are very
eye catching and can make a great focal
point in front of a shrub that is no longer
blooming. Or take the upward route with
a vining Jasmine on a trellis. For some
extra pizzazz, try growing white, and purple
blooming clematis up the same trellis. If
you already have a fence, bring the eye
up with a rambling rose.
An arbor can make a shady resting point
or it can add subtle direction to the location
you wish to lead the eye. If the arbor is
a focal point, then experiment with the
upright verticals on both sides. Container
gardens can be very effective in this situation
because plants or entire pots can be changed
with the seasons. Or, the arbor can take
your eye beyond, leading you to a beautiful
fountain, outdoor room, or any favored spot
in your landscape.
Fountains are an exciting way to bring height
to your garden and a lift to your spirits.
The sound of water should come in actions
such as sprays or spills. Either a quiet
trickle or a dramatic splash has a way of
making you feel far away from your daily
responsibilities. Your local garden center
should have fountains for any landscape.
Wall fountains, fountainettes, or bird baths
are effective in smaller gardens.
If you have an existing pond it is easy
to add vertical lift with add on visual
features. Raise your water garden to eye
level with a bubbling pot or a piece of
statuary. Bubble fountain kits are readily
available at your local garden center and
easy to install. Statuary broadens your
choices from playful turtles, to a classic
angel, or a big-bellied Buddha. If your
garden space is more limited, a few water
pots of different sizes and shape will also
lift the eye.
No matter what you decide just remember,
your garden is an expression of your artistic
side and although it may be a little work,
it should always be a lot of fun. Enjoy. |
| |
|
| 1. Preparation is
the key for starting a successful lawn.
Don’t just scrape the ground, break
up the compacted soil. If it is a large
area use a tiller. Rototillers can be rented
from your local rental center. Now is a
great time to add gypsum, such as Soilbuster,
which will help break up clay and improve
soil drainage. Get roots off to a good start
by spreading Master Nursery brand, Master
Start Fertilizer, then till again, mix an
amendment such as Pay Dirt at this time
to ensure proper soil texture and nutrients.
2. There are many
varieties of lawn seed. Decide which kind
of lawn is best for your area conditions.
3. Here at Wyntour Gardens
we have four types of bulk lawn seed.
Annual Rye is a good for over seeding
dormant (brown) warm-season grasses for
for a green lawn all year. California
Green is very hardy; it is the Old Shasta
mix that the feed stores used to sell.
Royal Turf has softer, finer, blades than
California Green, but it won’t hold
up to kids and dogs. Sun and Shade is
sturdier and will take some shade.
4. Rake the soil to begin
to level it out, removing any rocks and
debris that you find. To avoid problems
with excess water-runoff, make sure that
any grading you do allows water to flow
away from your house.
5. Finish leveling the
soil by using a roller filled with water.
Like tillers, rollers can be rented from
a local rental center. Here at our nursery,
we loan out seeding rollers and water
filled rollers to our customers. Water
the soil lightly after leveling.
6. Following the recommended
seeding rate, spread 1/4 of the seed over
the entire lawn area. Then repeat 3 more
times, each time using 1/4 of the seed.
However, each of the 4 times you distribute
a load of seed, push the spreader in a
different direction, to encourage even
dispersal.
7. Rake lightly, so as
to cover the seed with a thin layer of
soil. Master Nursery brand Paydirt, a
multi-purpose soil conditioner, makes
a great top dressing, as it is heavy enough
to keep the seed from blowing away.
8. The seeds must be watered
properly, in order to germinate. Use just
a fine spray, as you don't want to create
a flood! The soil should be kept evenly
moist, which means you must water a couple
of times per day. After the grass blades,
reach two to three inches tall, cut water
back to once or twice a day depending
on weather. If you know your schedule
won't permit this, now is the time to
look into automatic irrigation systems
before starting a new lawn. |
| |
Recommended
Lawn Care Products |
Weed
Control |
| GreenLight
Crab Grass Preventer |
| Pre and early post-emergent
crabgrass preventer. Kills other broadleaf
and grassy weeds. |
| |
| Master
Nursery Broadleaf DSO Weed Control Spray |
| Broadleaf DSO Weed Control
Spray contains trimec and will control over
200 broadleaf weeds including dandelions,
spurge, and oxalis. It will not harm blade
grass lawns and starts working overnight. |
| |
| Monterey
Crab & Spurge Preventer2 |
| Pre-emergence herbicide
with a 12.7% active ingredient. Controls
such weeds as crabgrass, foxtails, oxalis,
ryegrass and many more. Can be used on both
warm season and cool season turf. After
applying Crab & Spurge Preventer, watering
activates activity in the soil. |
| |
| Monterey
Weed-Hoe |
| Postemergence, selective
grass killer for warm and cool season turf.
Contains 48.3% active ingredient, higher
than most other products on the market!
Controls crabgrass, goosegrass, dutgrass,
Dallisgrass. |
| |
| Monterey
Nutgrass 'Nihilator |
| Controls yellow Nutgrass
in turf and ornamentals. Kills the nutlet
as well as the top of weed. May be used
on both cool and warm season turfgrass.
Non-staining, economical control of yellow
Nutgrass infestation. |
| |
| Turflon™
Ester |
| Postemergence herbicide
for control of bermudagrass, kikuyugrass
and broadleaf weeds in cool season grass.
Contains 61.6% active ingredient. One pint
covers up to 32,000 sq. ft. Controls Oxalis,
Clover and other broadleaf weeds. |
| |
| Weed Whacker
Jet Spray |
| Easy to use aerosol formulation.
Controls spurge, oxalis, dandelion and other
broadleaf weeds. Contains a foam marker
to show areas that have been sprayed. Excellent
for spot treatment of problem turf areas.
The easy way to control broadleaf weeds. |
| |
| *Herbicide
Helper (Oil Concentrate) |
A spreader penetrant to
be used with herbicides to make them work
better and faster
Use with Grass Getter (formerly Poast®),
Nutgrass 'Nihilator and other herbicides
for better control
Widely used in herbicidal sprays
Available in Pint |
| |
Fertilizers |
Master
Nursery Master Green™ Lawn Food |
| A pelleted blend lawn food
with ammoniacal and urea nitrogen, phosphorous,
potassium. Produces a rapid response (usually
in 7 days). |
| |
| Master
Nursery Master Green[tm] Weed & Feed |
| The same fertilizer as
Master Green Lawn Food. Trimec is added
to control 35 broad leaf weeds. Designed
for grass lawns only. |
| |
| Master
Nursery Formula 49 |
| A mild, organic based,
all purpose fertilizer for year round use.
|
| |
Pest
and Insect Control |
| |
| Bayer
Advanced Season Long Grub Control |
| Defends against grubs.
Helps turf recover. Apply anytime spring
through summer. Also kills molecrickets
and European cranefly larvae. |
| |
| Greenlight
Lawn and Garden Spray |
| 100% organic. Multi-Insect
killer and repellant. |
| |
| Greenlight
Spinosad Lawn and Garden |
| Ready to spray. Controls
beatles, worms, fleas, leafminers, thrips,
and spidermites. |
| |
| MoleMax |
| Mole and vole repellent.
Controls moles, gophers, voles, skunk, and
rabbits without killing. |
| |
| Safer
Insectcidal Soap |
| Controls aphids, mealy
bugs, mites, and whitefly. |
| |
Disease |
Bayer
Advanced Fungus Control for Lawns |
| Cures and prevents common
lawn disease, such as brown patch, dollar
spot, red thread and rust. One application
protects up to 2 months. |
| |
| Greenlight
Fung Away Systemic Lawn Fungicide Spray |
For control of powdery
mildew, leaf blight spots, rusts and brown
patch.
Spectracide Immunox MP Fungicide. Cures
and prevents all major lawn disease. Once
dried, it can’t be washed off by rain.
|
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