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Summer
Companion Planting for Garden Harmony
What is companion planting?
Throughout history, gardeners have noticed that certain plants grow better when planted near others. For selected vegetables and flowers, the vigor, flavor and productivity are improved. Not only can they improve the quality of the plants but, if planted near the wrong plant, the opposite effect can happen and the plants can become stunted or die. Companion planting also plays a role in deterring pests and attracting beneficial insects that prey on the pests.
 
What causes these reactions?
Plants excrete hormones known as allelochemicals. Chemicals are released that members of the same specie can recognize and understand as a message. Members of other species understand these messages also, though it may be a different message.

For this reason plants that are mixed in and amongst plants of a different family often do better than mass plantings of the same plant. This technique called intercropping encourages the reduction of major pest outbreaks and loss of crops.

In nature, rarely is there an area covered with only one plant. Instead, there are several different types of plants grown together that diversify the land and make plants and animals happy, providing purpose to each living thing. Plant aroma and pollen also play a role in the attraction of certain insects to a plant that may either aid in plant reproduction or possibly damage the plant.

 
Crop rotation
Another example of companion planting is to keep in mind the rotation of plants from season to season. Rotating crops that are considered heavy feeders with plants considered light feeders is a good way to ensure proper nutrients are returned to your soil. Heavy feeders are corn, tomatoes, squash, lettuce and cabbage. Heavy givers are all nitrogen fixing legumes like peas, beans, alfalfa, clover and vetch. The light feeders are all root crops such as turnips, sweet potatoes, and also green peppers. This sequence of heavy feeders, heavy givers, then, light feeders can ensure the soil gets the rest and nutrient build up it needs to sustain your vegetable growing love!

Another thing to consider when planting your crops is the amount of sun or shade needed for each plant. Taller plants such as corn or sunflowers can serve as a means of shade for shorter plants during the hot afternoon hours.

 
Companions and Antagonists
Companions Antagonists
Asparagus
Tomatoes, parsley, basil  
Beans
Potatoes, carrots, ucumbers,cauliflower, cabbage, summer savory Onions, chives, garlic gladiolus
Bush Beans
Potatoes, cucumbers, corn,
strawberries, celery, summer savory
Onions
Beans, Pole
Corn, summer savory, sunflowers Onions, beets, kohlrabi cabbage
Cabbage family
(cabbage, cauliflower, kale,
kohlrabi, broccoli)
Potatoes, celery, dill, chamomile, sage, peppermint, rosemary, beets, onions Strawberries, tomatoes, pole beans
Carrots
Peas, leaf lettuce, chives, onions, leeks, rosemary, sage, tomatoes Dill
Celery
Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage  
Chives
Carrots, tomatoes Peas, beans
Corn
Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers
pumpkins, squash
 
Cucumbers
Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers, lettuce
Potatoes, aromatic herbs
Eggplant
Beans, potatoes  
Leeks
Onions, celery, carrots  
Lettuce
Carrots, radishes, strawberries,
cucumbers, onions
 
Onions
Beets, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, summer savory, leeks, chamomile Peas, beans
Parsley
Tomatoes, asparagus  
Peas
Carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans Onions, garlic, gladiolus potatoes, chives
Potatoes
Beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, marigolds, eggplant
Pumpkins, squash, cucumbers, sunflowers, tomatoes, raspberries
Pumpkins
Corn Potatoes
Radishes
Peas, nasturtiums, lettuce cucumbers  
Soybeans
Loves everything, and everything loves it  
Spinach
Strawberries  
Squash
Nasturtiums, corn Potatoes
Strawberries
Bush beans, spinach, borage lettuce, onions Cabbage
Sunflowers
Cucumbers Potatoes
Tomatoes
Chives, onions, parsley, asparagus
marigolds, nasturtiums, carrots
Kohlrabi, potatoes fennel, cabbage
Turnips
Peas  
   
Herbs and Flowers
Basil
Companion to tomatoes, improves growth and flavor, repels flies and mosquitoes
Bee balm
Companion to tomatoes, improves growth and flavor
Borage
Companion to tomatoes, squash, and strawberries; deters tomato worms; improves growth and flavor
Caraway
Loosens soil
Catnip
Deters flea beetles
Chamomile
Companion to cabbage and onions; improves growth and flavor
Chervil
Companion to radishes; improves growth and flavor
Chives
Companion to carrots; improves growth and flavor
Dill
Companion to cabbage; dislikes carrots; improves growth and health of cabbage
Fennel
Most plants dislike it
Garlic
Plant near roses and raspberries; deters Japanese beetles; improves growth and health
Henbit
A common garden weed; general insect repellent
Horseradish
Deters potato bugs
Hyssop
Deters cabbage moths; companion to cabbage and grapes. Keep away from radishes
Lemon balm
Helpful throughout the garden
Lovage
Improves flavor and health of plants
Marigolds
Pest deterrents, discourages Mexican bean beetles, nematodes and other insects
Marjoram
Improves flavor
Mint
Companion to cabbage and tomatoes; improves health and flavor deters white cabbage moths
Mole or gopher plant
Deters moles mice and gophers
Nasturtiums
Companion to radishes, cabbage, and cucurbits; plant under fruit trees deters aphids, squash bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles; improves growth and flavor
Peppermint
Repels cabbage butterflies
Petunia
Protects beans
Pigweed
Good for putting nutrients in the soil, good for potatoes, onions, corn keeps weeds thinned
Calendula
Companion to tomatoes, deters asparagus beetles, tomato worms and other garden pests
Rosemary
Companion to cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage; deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies
Rue
Keep away from basil, plant near roses and raspberries, deters Japanese beetles
Sage
Plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots; keep away from cucumbers. Deters cabbage moth and carrot fly
Sow thistle
In moderation can help tomatoes, onions and corn
Summer savory
Plant with beans and onions; improves growth and flavor; deters bean beetles
Tansy
Plant under fruit trees; companion to roses and raspberries deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and ants
Tarragon
Good throughout the garden
Thyme
Deters cabbage worms
Valerian
Good throughout the garden
Wormwood
Keeps animals from the garden
Yarrow
Plant along borders, paths, and near aromatic herbs; enhances essential oil production
Jeavons, John. How to Grow more Vegetables. Berkeley California: Ten Speed Press, 1974
 
KIWI’S FOR THE HOME GARDEN
 
Originally from China and known as “Chinese Gooseberries”, these fast growing deciduous vines found their way to California from New Zealand in the early 1900’s. They became known as the “Kiwifruit” due to the fruits’ similar appearance to New Zealand’s national bird, the Kiwi bird, which is brown, fuzzy, funny-looking and round.

The vines of the kiwifruit are either male (bearing only male flowers) or female (bearing female flowers and fruit). We currently carry the Kiwi-Fuzzy All-Purpose males and the Kiwi-Fuzzy Hayward females. One male can pollinate up to 8 females. The Hayward female requires 600 hours of chilling hours and the All-Purpose male requires 800 hours. A vine can take up to five years from planting to produce flowers or set fruit. Be patient - these unique vines are well worth the time.

Plant kiwi in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade and plant your vines on a mound or bed slightly higher than the surrounding area so water will drain away from the trunk. Vines can grow to 30 feet long and will need sturdy supports, such as a trellis, an arbor, or a patio railing to grow on. By erecting the right structure for plant growth, you will ensure easier access to your vines for training, pruning and fruit production for years to come. Protection from the wind is also important because breezes of 10 to 15 mph or strong gusts can break developing shoots and reduce vine growth and production. Hot, dry air can wilt vines, scar fruit and leaves and cause fruit to drop.

To establish kiwi, you need good soil drainage and adequate water. Watering is one of the keys to growing kiwi vines. Lack of water, especially during periods of growth, results in wilting and the appearance of burned and/or brown curled leaves. In hot weather you will need to water three to four times a week for vines three years old or younger, and twice a week for older vines. Water deeply, insuring that the entire root ball receives water at each watering. You may use a hose, a drip system, or mini sprinklers. Overhead watering is not recommended as the fruit is susceptible to staining from salts and minerals in the water.

In fall, harvest fruit while it is firm and let it ripen off the tree; fruit left on the vine too long will spoil or be eaten by birds. Start harvesting when the first fruits just start to soften or when fuzzy kiwis turn from greenish brown to fully brown. For prolonged storage (up to 8 weeks), keep the fruit uncovered in your refrigerator’s crisper. Fruit may also be placed in sealed plastic bags in the refrigerator. To hasten ripening, put an apple or a banana in a bag with the kiwifruit and leave them at room temperature for a few days, until soft.

During the dormant season (December through February), prune the female vines for form and fruit production. Cut back to one or two main trunks and remove closely parallel or crossing branches. Fruit is borne on shoots from year-old or older wood; cut out shoots that have fruited for three years and shorten younger shoots; leaving three to seven buds beyond the previous summer’s fruit. In summer, shorten overlong shoots and unwind any shoots twining around main branches.

Male vines are pruned differently than female vines. Winter pruning in male vines consists of cutting out twisted, dead, or weak canes but leaving most canes 3-5 feet long. Because the male pollenizer’s sole purpose is flower production, you can prune it back drastically after it blooms. After flowering and pollination in May, male vines are cut back, leaving short, new canes to spread on the trellis. New growth soon appears and will grow and produce flower buds for the next year.

Kiwifruit has been found to contain more vitamin C than oranges, more potassium than a banana and is the most “nutrient dense” of all major fruits. Kiwifruit is now ranked as one of the ten most nutritious fruits. In addition to vitamin C and Potassium, kiwis contain Folate, Copper, fiber, vitamin E, Manganese, Chromium and Lutein.

Kiwifruit can be enjoyed many different ways; some people just slice them in half and scoop out the fruit, and some eat it like an apple, fuzzy skin and all. Try topping a bagel and cream cheese with the beautiful emerald green slices, add to fresh fruit blender drinks, garnish on pies and cakes or how about a peanut butter and kiwi sandwich? Kiwifruit is very versatile, use your imagination and enjoy.

Despite remaining a relatively small agricultural industry consisting of around 300 growers who farm around 13 acres each. California produces about 98% of the kiwifruit in the US. There is a California Kiwi Fruit Commission located in Fresno, California which has a very informative website: www.kiwifruit.org with information ranging from the history of the fruit, types of trellis’s, pruning, recipes and a children’s section.

As with anything worthwhile, you need to expend a little time and effort, but the rewards will be ever so sweet.

 
CREATING A WILDLIFE HABITAT IN YOUR YARD
 
 
As the human population increases, the natural habitat for many creatures decreases. There are many simple and inexpensive ways to add beauty and interest to your yard, while providing a safe place for small animals and beneficial insects to live and raise their young. Much information on creating wildlife habitats is available on-line, in books and articles, and on television.

A Habitat is an environment that provides food, water, shelter and a place to raise young. Some of the reasons to create a wildlife habitat include supporting local wildlife year round, especially during winter months; broadening your knowledge of gardening as well as wildlife, so you can share this knowledge with others; an opportunity to view wildlife such as hummingbirds, song birds, butterflies, dragonflies and many other beautiful and interesting creatures from the privacy and comfort of your own yard; and increasing the value of your property, as well as adding beauty and interest to your yard.

You don’t need a lot of room to create a wildlife habitat, and you don’t need to do it all at once.
Often, it’s fun to add habitat environments a little bit at a time, and watch the environment evolve. Before you begin, it’s useful to decide what type of wildlife you wish to attract. Research the subject to learn what type of environment is needed for the wildlife you select. Assess your landscape, decide what you have, what you want to change, and what you need to add.

 
CREATING A HABITAT FOR BUTTERFLIES
 
Adult butterflies need nectar producing plants. The flowers of these plants are usually flat-topped, brightly colored, with short flower tubes. Some excellent choices are yarrow, phlox, verbena, lantana, viola, coreopsis, purple coneflower, asters, buddleija (butterfly bush), milkweed, and black-eyed Susan. Plants in sunny locations generally produce more nectar than those receiving less than six-hours of sun. Butterfly larvae need host plants such as milkweed, buddleija, mallow, nettle, dill, parsley, fennel, blackberries, cabbage, blueberries, willow, privet & viburnum.

The water needs of a butterfly are fairly simple. All that is needed is a damp spot so the butterflies can land and drink from puddle water. A saucer filled with sand and water is perfect. Or try a birdbath with small gravel or decorative rock covering the bottom, filled until the water level is just below the tops of the rocks. Butterflies also need a place to bask in the sun. A smooth, dark river rock placed in the center of your water feeder works well. A small space for shelter is all butterflies need – an old log, peeling bark, an old fence pots, etc.

 
CREATING A HABITAT FOR HUMMINGBIRDS
 
Hummingbirds are nectar feeders, but they also consume insects and spiders for protein.
Hummingbirds receive most of their nectar requirement from flowers. Some great flowers to attract hummingbirds are agastache, columbine, abutilon, buddleija, heuchera, salvia liatris (gay feather), monarda (bee balm), honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, red hot poker, lantana, bottlebrush and citrus, just to name a few.

If you would like to add a nectar feeder, here are a few guidelines for the health and safety of the hummingbirds:

A one-part sugar/four-parts water mixture seems to be the best. There is no need for red food coloring.
Place feeders throughout your yard, not too close to the fence, in order to protect the tiny birds from predators.
Clean feeders regularly, especially on warmer days, using warm water. If mold is present, clean with denture cleaning tablets. Soak overnight and rinse with water.
Hummingbirds burn a lot of calories, so feeders with a perch gives them a place t rest
while feeding.
   
Hummingbirds get most of their food from nectar, however they do enjoy an occasional shower from a mister or fountain. They also like a birdbath with pebbles and water for drinking and bathing.

Hummingbirds need a place to perch, close to their food source. Small trees and shrubs are usually sufficient. A nesting female will need cover around her perch and nest while she is away feeding. Hummingbirds use a variety of nesting materials, including leaves, lichens, spider webs, and other plant materials. They usually build their nests on horizontal branches, protected by over-hanging limbs.

 
CREATING A HABITAT FOR SONGBIRDS AND OTHER BIRDS
 
Most birds are seed and insect-eaters. Placing feeders around your yard provides safe places for different species of birds, prevents over-crowding, and keeps cats and other predators guessing.

Bird baths are the easiest way to provide water. These, too, can be placed in a few different locations about your property. Change the water daily to prevent molds and mosquitoes. Avoid adding chemicals to the water. Many birds benefit from birdhouses and nesting boxes. Depending on the types of birds you have in your area, you can easily provide what they need to raise their young.

 
CREATING A HABITAT FOR TOADS
 
Kids enjoy making something called a “toad abode.” To make one, get a medium-size clay pot and saucer. Put the saucer on the ground and keep it filled with water. Nearby, put the pot upside-down with an edge resting on a rock. This makes room for a toad to fit through and hide inside. If you have a broken pot with a chunk missing at the rim, you have an abode with an instant doorway – no need to prop it up.


FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HABITATS, look up “Habitat” on your computer search engine or visit the following websites: www.nwf.org and www.hummingbirds.com.

 
SAFE GARDENING WITH CHILDREN AND PETS
 
We all have such a love for gardening – it’s healthy for the body and soul. Gardening chores help keep us physically fit. And, your heart can’t help but smile when that dormant tree pops out new blooms or those seedlings break through the ground.

There are so many things to consider when planning our gardens and landscaping. Light requirements, size and shape of any given plant, color, flowering times and so on. Another consideration that we may sometimes overlook unintentionally is what plants may be toxic to our children and pets.

Pets can sometimes be destructive. Sometimes, they’ll accidentally get into places and things they shouldn’t. When dogs are bored, they will chew on most anything. They’ll graze on grass when they have an upset tummy. Same goes for cats . . . it’s part of their natural make-up. Horses always think “the grass is greener on the other side of the fence”. We humans sometimes think that, too!

And children – well, they are naturally curious and often mischievous. Sometimes those pyracantha berries are irresistible. If a young child has experienced the joy of picking blackberries, how can they be expected to differentiate between good berries and poisonous ones?

People who love pets and gardening can have both, with a little common sense and careful use of child-safe and pet-safe plants and chemicals.

The first good sense rule is not to plant anything that’s toxic to people or animals.
Toxicity can relate to the size of the child or animal and the amount of material consumed. It’s best just to avoid that which may be harmful. On the flip side, there are many, many plants that are non-toxic that will enhance our gardens and keep our children and pets safe as well.

Another issue to consider is chemicals. Ingredients in herbicides, insecticides and soil amendments can be toxic. If a product contains toxic chemicals, package directions are required to say so. We recommend careful reading of all product labels. Some people think that going organic is safe, but that’s not always the case. For example, Cocoa Mulch, a great ground cover for your garden beds, is toxic to dogs and it’s something they find attractive.

And while adding bone meal to your soil can add beneficial nutrients to your growing areas, dogs do like bones. Generally they won’t eat enough to cause a problem unless they get into a bag of it. But problems with this product have occurred, so consider your situation carefully before deciding to use certain products in your garden. Coffee grounds, a good organic fertilizer, is not good for your pets. Most times, our pets won’t seek out these poisonous plants, but it is nice to know to be aware of them.


Many common plants, bulbs, or seeds can be dangerous if ingested or can cause external reactions. The Sunset Western Garden Book indicates if a plant is poisonous in any way.
Again, always read the information on product labels, and if you have concerns, call the company hot-lines listed on the labels.

If you suspect your child or pet may have ingested a poisonous plant, contact your pediatrician or veterinarian immediately. Or call Poison Control at the numbers below:

DO NOT CALL THE NURSERY
We will recommend you call 911 or Poison Control.
For Poison Control, call: (800) 876-4766.
For Animal Poison Control Center, call (888) 426-4435.

For more information, here are some suggested websites:
www.aspca.org/toxicplants
www.hsus.org/ace/11777
www.library.uiuc.edu/vex/toxic/comlist.htm

 
New Heights for Your Garden
Written by George Winter and Ellen Brammer
 
If your landscape is feeling flat and you are ready for a change, you might try giving your garden a vertical lift. The possibilities are endless - from a simple, inexpensive trellis to the all out drama of a vine covered pergola or a tree-lined alley. With some careful thought you can reflect your own sense of style to your vertical garden.
Tools for adding vertical dimension include statuary, pottery, arbors, and lattice trellises. Trees, vines, and perennials can compliment or even substitute the structural height. Wrought iron is very popular right now. There is a wide variety to choose, from the small and simple obelisk to full size gazebos.
There are many simple ways to “raise” some interest in your garden. Invert an empty pot and place another container on top, planted with low growing plants for filler, and some ground cover that trails down the sides. These plantings are very eye catching and can make a great focal point in front of a shrub that is no longer blooming. Or take the upward route with a vining Jasmine on a trellis. For some extra pizzazz, try growing white, and purple blooming clematis up the same trellis. If you already have a fence, bring the eye up with a rambling rose.
An arbor can make a shady resting point or it can add subtle direction to the location you wish to lead the eye. If the arbor is a focal point, then experiment with the upright verticals on both sides. Container gardens can be very effective in this situation because plants or entire pots can be changed with the seasons. Or, the arbor can take your eye beyond, leading you to a beautiful fountain, outdoor room, or any favored spot in your landscape.
Fountains are an exciting way to bring height to your garden and a lift to your spirits. The sound of water should come in actions such as sprays or spills. Either a quiet trickle or a dramatic splash has a way of making you feel far away from your daily responsibilities. Your local garden center should have fountains for any landscape. Wall fountains, fountainettes, or bird baths are effective in smaller gardens.
If you have an existing pond it is easy to add vertical lift with add on visual features. Raise your water garden to eye level with a bubbling pot or a piece of statuary. Bubble fountain kits are readily available at your local garden center and easy to install. Statuary broadens your choices from playful turtles, to a classic angel, or a big-bellied Buddha. If your garden space is more limited, a few water pots of different sizes and shape will also lift the eye.
No matter what you decide just remember, your garden is an expression of your artistic side and although it may be a little work, it should always be a lot of fun. Enjoy.
 
How to Start a New Lawn
1. Preparation is the key for starting a successful lawn. Don’t just scrape the ground, break up the compacted soil. If it is a large area use a tiller. Rototillers can be rented from your local rental center. Now is a great time to add gypsum, such as Soilbuster, which will help break up clay and improve soil drainage. Get roots off to a good start by spreading Master Nursery brand, Master Start Fertilizer, then till again, mix an amendment such as Pay Dirt at this time to ensure proper soil texture and nutrients.

2. There are many varieties of lawn seed. Decide which kind of lawn is best for your area conditions.

3. Here at Wyntour Gardens we have four types of bulk lawn seed. Annual Rye is a good for over seeding dormant (brown) warm-season grasses for for a green lawn all year. California Green is very hardy; it is the Old Shasta mix that the feed stores used to sell. Royal Turf has softer, finer, blades than California Green, but it won’t hold up to kids and dogs. Sun and Shade is sturdier and will take some shade.

4. Rake the soil to begin to level it out, removing any rocks and debris that you find. To avoid problems with excess water-runoff, make sure that any grading you do allows water to flow away from your house.

5. Finish leveling the soil by using a roller filled with water. Like tillers, rollers can be rented from a local rental center. Here at our nursery, we loan out seeding rollers and water filled rollers to our customers. Water the soil lightly after leveling.

6. Following the recommended seeding rate, spread 1/4 of the seed over the entire lawn area. Then repeat 3 more times, each time using 1/4 of the seed. However, each of the 4 times you distribute a load of seed, push the spreader in a different direction, to encourage even dispersal.

7. Rake lightly, so as to cover the seed with a thin layer of soil. Master Nursery brand Paydirt, a multi-purpose soil conditioner, makes a great top dressing, as it is heavy enough to keep the seed from blowing away.

8. The seeds must be watered properly, in order to germinate. Use just a fine spray, as you don't want to create a flood! The soil should be kept evenly moist, which means you must water a couple of times per day. After the grass blades, reach two to three inches tall, cut water back to once or twice a day depending on weather. If you know your schedule won't permit this, now is the time to look into automatic irrigation systems before starting a new lawn.

 
Recommended Lawn Care Products
Weed Control
GreenLight Crab Grass Preventer
Pre and early post-emergent crabgrass preventer. Kills other broadleaf and grassy weeds.
 
Master Nursery Broadleaf DSO Weed Control Spray
Broadleaf DSO Weed Control Spray contains trimec and will control over 200 broadleaf weeds including dandelions, spurge, and oxalis. It will not harm blade grass lawns and starts working overnight.
 
Monterey Crab & Spurge Preventer2
Pre-emergence herbicide with a 12.7% active ingredient. Controls such weeds as crabgrass, foxtails, oxalis, ryegrass and many more. Can be used on both warm season and cool season turf. After applying Crab & Spurge Preventer, watering activates activity in the soil.
 
Monterey Weed-Hoe
Postemergence, selective grass killer for warm and cool season turf. Contains 48.3% active ingredient, higher than most other products on the market! Controls crabgrass, goosegrass, dutgrass, Dallisgrass.
 
Monterey Nutgrass 'Nihilator
Controls yellow Nutgrass in turf and ornamentals. Kills the nutlet as well as the top of weed. May be used on both cool and warm season turfgrass. Non-staining, economical control of yellow Nutgrass infestation.
 
Turflon™ Ester
Postemergence herbicide for control of bermudagrass, kikuyugrass and broadleaf weeds in cool season grass. Contains 61.6% active ingredient. One pint covers up to 32,000 sq. ft. Controls Oxalis, Clover and other broadleaf weeds.
 
Weed Whacker Jet Spray
Easy to use aerosol formulation. Controls spurge, oxalis, dandelion and other broadleaf weeds. Contains a foam marker to show areas that have been sprayed. Excellent for spot treatment of problem turf areas. The easy way to control broadleaf weeds.
 
*Herbicide Helper (Oil Concentrate)
A spreader penetrant to be used with herbicides to make them work better and faster
Use with Grass Getter (formerly Poast®), Nutgrass 'Nihilator and other herbicides for better control
Widely used in herbicidal sprays
Available in Pint
 
Fertilizers

Master Nursery Master Green™ Lawn Food
A pelleted blend lawn food with ammoniacal and urea nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. Produces a rapid response (usually in 7 days).
 
Master Nursery Master Green[tm] Weed & Feed
The same fertilizer as Master Green Lawn Food. Trimec is added to control 35 broad leaf weeds. Designed for grass lawns only.
 
Master Nursery Formula 49
A mild, organic based, all purpose fertilizer for year round use.
 
Pest and Insect Control
 
Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control
Defends against grubs. Helps turf recover. Apply anytime spring through summer. Also kills molecrickets and European cranefly larvae.
 
Greenlight Lawn and Garden Spray
100% organic. Multi-Insect killer and repellant.
 
Greenlight Spinosad Lawn and Garden
Ready to spray. Controls beatles, worms, fleas, leafminers, thrips, and spidermites.
 
MoleMax
Mole and vole repellent. Controls moles, gophers, voles, skunk, and rabbits without killing.
 
Safer Insectcidal Soap
Controls aphids, mealy bugs, mites, and whitefly.
 
Disease

Bayer Advanced Fungus Control for Lawns
Cures and prevents common lawn disease, such as brown patch, dollar spot, red thread and rust. One application protects up to 2 months.
 
Greenlight Fung Away Systemic Lawn Fungicide Spray
For control of powdery mildew, leaf blight spots, rusts and brown patch.
Spectracide Immunox MP Fungicide. Cures and prevents all major lawn disease. Once dried, it can’t be washed off by rain.