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Fall
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Go
Wild With Native Plants |
A California native plant is a plant that
has grown here naturally, without help from
man, before the settlement of Europeans. Northern
California has an abundant natural beauty
comprised of native plants growing in a wide
range of ecosystems. There are many advantages
to landscaping with these plants.
The use of native plants in your landscape
will give your garden a bio-diversity which
will bring health and vigor to your garden.
Natives are less work and strain on both our
personal and ecological resources. A garden
of native plants is long lived and hardy,
designed by nature to thrive in the challenges
California gardeners face. A native plant
has built in defenses against pests which
means an easy and organic approach to pest
control. A native garden will also attract
natural predators for injects. Indigenous
species are designed with a system of co-operation
with native fungus, feeding on these mycorrhizal
organisms, which protect these plants from
disease. A diverse native garden is easy to
maintain and will allow for more time to discover
the new beauty of your garden. You may find
you have new beneficial insects, new birds
and maybe even a furry animal to admire.
There is no mystery in doing something as
natural as growing natives. Here are some
simple guidelines that with help ensure your
success:
- Native plants grow better grouped
together so they can form an interdependence
with each other and your local soil.
It is important to understand where
and how the plants grow in nature
and group them accordingly.
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- Most native plants are drought
resistant and can easily drown,
so don't overdo the watering. If
you use drip emitters, replace them
with spray to mimic the natural
rain these plants survive on.
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- Your native plants will need no
fertilizer and you should also avoid
using soil amendments. Organic mulches
are beneficial and should be appropriate
to the nature of you garden, such
as rock for desert gardens; redwood,
oak, and pine for mimicking forest
undergrowth. With the wide variety
of natives to choose from you can
easily select plants appropriate
to your original soil type.
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There are a wide range of resources
to help you with your native garden.
Native plant societies provide a wealth
of history and advice; magazine and
web articles offer how-to information;
and your independently owned garden
center can assist you on selection,
planting and care. The ideal time to
plant natives is in the fall so they
can take advantage of the cooler, wetter
weather to establish their root systems
under natural conditions.
There are many native plants sold commercially
and you may already have them growing
in your neighborhood. Many native species
of Salvia are very useful landscape
plants, from flat growing ground covers
to shrubs, blooming spring to summer.
Matilija Poppy has large white flowers.
California Fuchsia with its tubular
red, pink or white blooms provide nectar
for hummingbirds in fall. Toyon or Christmas
Berry provides non-toxic berries for
birds in winter. California Manzanitas
are beautiful hardy shrubs for the landscape.
The many species of drought tolerant
Wild Lilac offer beautiful blossoms
to your yard in spring. |
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| Acer
Macrophylum |
Big
Leaf Maple |
| Acer
negundo v. californica |
California
Box Elder |
| Achillea |
Yarrow |
| Aesculus
californica |
California
Buckeye |
| Aquilegia |
Columbine |
| Arbutus |
Strawberry
Tree |
| Arctosthapylos |
Manzanita |
| Aristolochia
California |
Pipe
Vine |
| Artemesia |
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| Asclepias
speciosa |
Showy
Milkweed |
| Aster |
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| Baccharis
pilularis |
Coyote
Bush |
| Brodiaea
californica |
California
Brodiaea |
| Calocedrus
decurrens |
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| Calycanthus
occidentalis |
Spice
Bush |
| Carpenteria
californica |
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| Ceanothus |
Wild
Lilac |
| Cephalanthus
occidentalis |
Buttonbush |
| Cercis
occidentalis |
Western
Redbud |
| Chlorogalum
pomeridionum |
Soap
Plant |
| Chrysathamnus
nauseosus |
Rabbit
Bush |
| Cistus
x corhariensis |
White
Hybrid Rockrose |
| Clematis
ligusticifolia |
Virgins
Bow Clematis |
| Cornus
nutelii |
Western
Dogwood |
| Cornus
stolonifera |
American
Dogwood |
| Cupressus |
Cypress |
| Dicentra
Formosa |
Bleeding
Heart |
| Echinacea |
Purple
Coneflower |
| Epilobium |
California
Fuschia |
| Erigeron |
Fleabane,
Santa Barbara Daisy |
| Eschscholzia
californica |
California
Poppy |
| Fremontodendron
californica |
Flannel
Bush |
| Genista
Lydia |
Prostrate
Genista |
| Grindellia
Camporum |
Gumplant |
| Helenium
biglovii |
Bigelow
Sneezeweed |
| Heteromeles
arbutifolia |
Toyon |
| Heuchera
spp. |
Alumroot |
| Hibiscus
californicus |
California
Hibiscus |
| Hypericum |
St.
John’s Wort |
| Keckiella
antirrhinoides |
Yellow
Bush Snapdragon |
| Lepechina
spp. |
California
Pitcher Sage |
| Lilium
Pardalinum |
Leopard
Lily |
| Linum
lewisii |
Blue
Flax |
| Lupinus
spp. |
Lupine |
| Mimulus
spp. |
Monkey
Flower |
| Odonstostomum
hartwigii |
Hartwigs
Odonstosto |
| Oemleria
cerasiformis |
Oso
Berry |
| Penstemon
spp. |
Penstemon |
| Pinus
spp. |
Pine |
| Platanus
racemosa |
California
sycamore |
| Quercus
spp. |
Oak |
| Rhamnus
spp. |
Coffeeberry |
| Rhus |
Lemonade
Berry, Skunk Bush |
| Ribes
spp. |
Currant |
| Romneya
coulteri |
Matilja
Poppy |
| Rosa
California |
California
Wild Rose |
| Rubus
ursinus |
California
Blackberry |
| Salix
spp. |
Willow |
| Salvia
spp. |
Sage |
| Sambucus
mexicana |
Mexican
Elderberry |
| Sequoiadendron
giganteum |
Giant
Redwood |
| Sisyrinchium
californicum |
Yellow-Eyed
Grass |
| Solidago
spp. |
Golden
Rod |
| Styrax
officinalis |
California
Snowbell |
| Symphoricarpos
albus |
v. laivigatus Snowberry |
| Torreya
californica |
California
Nutmeg |
| Trichostema
lanatum |
Wooly
Blue Curls |
| Umbelluaria
californica |
California
Bay |
| Urtica
dioica |
Stinging
Nettle |
| Vaccinum
ovatum |
Huckleberry |
| Viitas
californica |
California
Wild Grape |
| Zauschneria
californica |
California
Fuschia |
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Imagine a twilight world where
the color and the heat of the summer
fade to a cool monochromatic evening.
The moon rises to paint your yard
with a whole new perspective. Once
the eye adjusts, there is a landscape
of Silver Ghosts, Midnight Candy and
Fairly Lilies. White is no longer
dull, but luminous. Gray shimmers
to life in a cool evening breeze.
Water turns to liquid silver. Moon
shadows shift and perception changes
further. The night garden reveals
those snails that chomp leaves, the
beetles that control the aphids, nocturnal
birds, and maybe even a wise old owl.
The chores that seem impossible in
the heat of day, ease in the cool
of the evening. Night gardens can
expand your appreciation and extend
the length of time you can work at
your hobby. This is the magic of a
nightscape.
Plants are the mainstay of the moon
garden. It is likely you already have
plants that shine at night - perhaps
a silver leaved conifer; white and
yellow blooming perennials; patterned
flowers or variegated foliage. Consider
adding color and fragrance such as
Evening Primrose or Star Jasmine.
Sweet Alyssum and many types of salvia
will add scent and hue to your night
garden. Lavenders are fragrant and
have silver foliage that will wake
up the dark. Spotlight a tree with
interesting bark such as Crape Myrtle,
White Birch or Dogwood to add texture
to your garden at night.
Plants that specifically bloom at
night such as Evening Primrose, Moonflower
and Phlox 'Midnight Candy' are especially
sweet because their nectars have not
been dissipated by the hot sun. Pink
Night, Red Night and White Night Water
Lilies open across your pond in the
evening, and close before noontime.
Some plants such as Perfumed Fairy
Lily, Tuberose and Carolina Jessamine
are open during the day but won't
release their scent until evening.
As a general rule, desert and hardy
tropical plants shine at night. Your
locally owned and operated garden
center should have a knowledgeable
staff that can help you with your
night garden landscape. Lots of information
is available on-line, searching under
"night gardening." A listing
entitled Plants Suitable for Moonlight
Gardens follows.
Your nightscape should include a clear
level path or lawn so you can safely
admire your moonlit garden. If you
plan to spend a lot of time or work
at night some overhead light will
be needed. Solar or low voltage landscape
lights can enhance you garden. You
may want a place to sit and enjoy
the subtleties of your moonlit garden:
a simple chair, garden bench, and
a trellis vining with night blooming
Moon Flower could be the perfect touch.
Additions of a silver garden globe,
an illuminated fountain, or a chime
to catch the night breeze are details
you may wish to consider. There is
an ever-growing selection of solar-powered
garden accessories now available,
including a great collection of unusual
statuary in Wyntour Gardens' gift
shop.
As the moon waxes and wanes from summer
to fall, then fall to winter, don't
forget to appreciate your garden at
night. Enjoy the naked branches against
the moon; watch the frost glitter
with the stars. You may find that
the perception of your garden is forever
changed.
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Plants
Suitable for Moonlight Gardens |
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Blooming
Plants for Moonlight Gardens
Colors that will
glow in the moonlight |
Specifically
Blooms at Night
Plants that save
their scent for night |
| Perennials |
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| Achillea millefolium |
Common Yarrow |
Ipomoea alba |
Moonflower (vine) |
| Chrysanthemum maximum |
Shasta Daisy |
Nicotiana alata Flowering |
Tobacco (perennial) |
| Hemerocallis spp |
Fortnight Lily |
Oenothera Biennis |
Evening Primrose (perennial) |
| Iberis sempervirens |
Candytuft |
Mirabilis jalapa |
Four o'clocks (annual) |
| Romneya coulteri |
Matilija Poppy |
Zaluzianskya capensis |
Night Phlox Midnight Candy (perennial) |
| Yucca |
Yucca |
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Foilage
for Moonlight Gardens
Silver and variegated
foliage for light reflection.
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| Shrubs |
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Perennials |
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| Cistus corbariensis |
White Rockrose |
Centauria cineraria |
Dusty Miller |
| Gardenia |
Gardenia, many varieties |
Lavandula spp |
Lavender |
| Nerium oleander |
White Oleander |
Helichrysum petiolare |
Licorice Plant |
| Spiraea prunifolium |
Bridalwreath |
Santolina chamaecyparissus |
Lavender Cotton |
| Viburnum |
many varieties |
Stachys lanata |
Lamb's Ears |
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| Vines |
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Shrubs |
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| Clematis armandi |
Evergreen Clematis |
Artemisia |
Wormwood many varieties |
| Jasminum |
many varieties |
Buddleia davidii |
Butterfly Bush |
| Rosa banksia 'Alba Plena' |
Lady Bank's Rose |
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| Trachelospermum jasminoides |
Star Jasmine |
Grass |
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Festuca ovina glauca |
Blue Fescue |
| Groundcovers |
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Phalaris arundinacea variegata |
Variegated Ribbon Grass |
| Cerastium tomentosum |
Snow-In-Summer |
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| Cistus salvifolius |
Sageleaf Rockrose |
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| Trees |
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| Magnolia |
Star Magnolia Tree (fragrant) |
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| Betula pendula |
Birch, European white |
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| Cornus |
Dogwood, many varieties |
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| Picea pungens |
Blue spruce |
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| Bulbs |
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| Zantedeschia aethiopica |
Calla Lily Hybrids |
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‘Tis
the Season to be Planting
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| Here in the
North State, gardeners often refer to Fall
as the “Second Spring.” It is
an excellent time for planting trees, shrubs
and perennials, as the still mild weather
gives plants the opportunity to establish
roots and become acclimated while the soil
is still warm. Mild Redding winters allow
root systems to continue to grow during the
winter months. Long-awaited rains alleviate
the need for constant watering, though it’s
still important to keep things watered during
heat spells.
Most trees and shrubs can be planted now,
and many varieties are known for their breathtaking
fall color. Ginkgo
biloba (Maidenhair Tree) is a hardy
tree with leaves that turn a bright gold
in the fall. The leaves of Nyssa sylvatica
(Sour Gum) turn coppery red, and its, red-tinged
bark makes a dramatic picture against the
winter sky. Quercus coccinea (Scarlet Oak)
is a moderately fast growing deciduous tree
whose leaves also turn a bright scarlet
with the onset of colder autumn nights.
All Maples (Acer varieties) will take on
color as well. Among the countless varieties
of shrubs, Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo),
Coleonema (Breath of Heaven), Cotoneaster
and Spirea are excellent choices for fall
color.
Fall is also an excellent time to plant
perennials. They are easy to plant, require
little care during the winter, and are good
filler for bare patches in the landscape.
When spring arrives, you will have a jump
on garden tasks, as some of the work will
already be done. Some species which over-winter
well in the North State are: Aster frikartii
‘Monch’, Erigeron karviskianus
(Santa Barbara daisy), Lavender, Penstemon
(P. gloxinoides), and Scabiosa ‘Butterfly
Blue’ and ‘Pink Mist’.
Calendula is perhaps the showiest winter
flower. Other good flowers to plant now
for winter color include Iceland poppies,
pansies, violas, and primrose. If planted
now, these early bloomers will be larger,
better established and produce more flowers
than similar flowers planted in spring.
Fall is also the time to plant spring flowering
bulbs, like tulips, iris, daffodils and
crocus’. Filling hillsides and open
areas in the garden with bulbs will result
in gorgeous displays of cheery, bright flowers
in early spring. Use lots of bulb fertilizer
and compost for best results. Cover bulb
beds with fall & winter flowers, or
plant the beds with a hardy evergreen perennial
ground cover like verbena or thyme.
Scatter wildflower seeds now, as nature
would. Use seed you have collected or purchased
from a reputable seed company. Keep seeds
watered during dry spells, especially if
seeds have sprouted. You should be rewarded
with beds of exotic blooms in spring.
If you find yourself with a collection
of plants in nursery containers that never
quite got into the ground this summer, plant
them now – they will have an easier
time in the ground than in the pots over
the winter. Fall is also a great time to
put in a new lawn or refurbish an existing
one.
Its best to wait until spring to plant
tropical plants, citrus and other frost
sensitive plants, such as fuchsia and bougainvillea.
Protect these with frost cloth, by building
a frame around the plant and draping the
material around the frame. Avoid touching
the leaves with the cloth. Wrapping twinkly
lights around the trunks of the plants will
raise the temperature a few degrees, perhaps
enough to ward off frost damage, besides
being very decorative. Also consider keeping
frost sensitive plants in containers on
wheels, so they can be moved inside when
temperatures plummet and frost threatens.
General fall clean-up is as much a part
of the yearly gardening cycle as tilling
the soil and planting seeds. Harvest as
much produce as possible, collect fallen
vegetables, remove spent plants and clean
up under your plants. Make sure the harvest
is finished on fruit trees. Clear off fruit
that has not been harvested and collect
what has fallen on the ground.
Pull up weeds before they set seed. Don’t
put seedy weeds or diseased vegetables,
fruit or plant clippings into your compost
pile. Rake leaves weekly - don’t let
them collect, as they can cause fungal problems
in spring.
Fall is an excellent time to have soil
testing done, to be sure of the nutrient
composition of your soil. MONARCH LABS in
Chico does thorough soil testing, and can
be reached at: (530) 343-5818. It is also
a good time to correct any deficiencies
noted in the soil. Add soil sulfur to correct
alkalinity and oyster-shell lime to correct
acidic soil.
Think about care and feeding of native
wildlife over the winter by planting locally
native plants for birds and small animals.
Also choose shrubs that bear fruit and berries.
Provide a source of water. A pond with a
shallow side or a birdbath will offer water
for drinking and bathing. Frogs and toads
eat a wide variety of insect pests &
will take up residence in or near a ground-level
water feature.
During the slow winter months, study the
microclimates in your yard. Which areas
collect frost? Which areas dry out quickly?
Which are the wettest? Which are the most/least
sheltered. Draw maps, make notes of the
successes and not-so-successful things from
the past year, plan for the coming year,
and begin dreaming with seed catalogs and
magazine ideas.
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Secrets
of a Winter Vegetable Garden
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Fresh garden produce
unquestionably tastes better and is higher in
vitamins than grocery store produce. This is especially
true during the winter, because store-bought produce
is mostly grown far away in warmer climates. The
selection becomes more limited and the prices
higher during the winter months, and sometimes
shopping for produce during the doldrums of winter
can be down-right depressing.
If you’ve never grown vegetables during
the winter, now is the perfect time to start.
The Mediterranean climate of our area is perfect
for year-round vegetable gardening, and by using
a
few special techniques and the correct selection
of crops, one can easily have year-round harvests
at home. Cool weather crops are hardy and many
will survive temperatures below freezing, others
down to 30 degrees.
Winter vegetable gardening is easy, especially
compared to the summer vegetable garden. There
are fewer insects. There will be little watering,
and less weeding. You can let the weather do the
work for you this winter instead of fighting the
arid heat. Give your winter vegetables extra space
when you plant them so the air circulation can
help prevent rot. You don’t need to fertilize
the winter garden - in fact it is better not to.
High levels of nitrogen will bring on a new flush
of growth, which will be more susceptible to frost.
Fertilize in the spring to replace depleted nitrogen.
Location is key to a successful winter garden.
Choose a warm location, one that does not frost
early. Frost pockets form in low-lying areas,
so locate your vegetable garden in the highest
point in your yard. You will want good drainage
for the rain water. Amend your soil with gypsum
or Soil Buster to help with poor
drainage.
A blanket
of mulch will keep the ground insulated, and even
out swings in soil temperature. Mulch prevents
soil from compression of winter rains. It will
also help keep the mud off the plants and reduce
winter weeds. Mulch, such as Mirana Natural
Cocoa Mulch, is easy to spread, light
to handle and environmentally friendly. Master
Nursery offers a Forest Bark
and Shredded Red Cedar Bark mulch
as well.
Easy access to your garden is important, as winters
are muddy. Use a layer of straw to line the paths
between your plants. Not only does the straw provide
a non-muddy walkway, but also helps with weed
prevention. In spring, you can simply cultivate
the straw in with your soil, to be ready for another
growing season.
Winter favorites include cole crops such as cabbage,
broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and brussels sprouts.
These can be started by seed in August or purchased
as seedlings in a nursery throughout the fall/winter
season. These crops need cool weather for their
heads to form.
Spinach is best grown in cool weather, as it bolts
in the heat. Spinach will re-grow as you cut it,
but if you want to harvest it all winter make
several sowings
throughout the season. There are many varieties
of lettuce which thrive in cool weather. Red leaf
lettuce is especially beautiful, with crinkly
leaves and splashes of red. At our nurseries,
the six-packs of assorted lettuce varieties are
especially popular. There are other delicious
greens for your salad, such as mesclun mixes and
arugula, which add unusual flavors, textures and
colors.
Here at Wyntour Gardens we carry a wide variety
of cool-crop vegetable and herb seedlings and
specialized tomatoes that will set fruit at lower
temperatures, to help make winter gardening even
more exciting. Choose varieties that are adaptive
to chilly temperatures and shorter daylight hours
such as the tomato variety, Siberia. If you start
from seed, plant between July and September. Seedlings
should be planted as soon as they become available.
Other great and hardy winter green include kale
and Swiss Chard. Beets and turnips will overwinter,
plus provide greens for steaming. Successive plantings
of carrots are highly recommended. And don’t
forget the onions, garlic, and peas.
If space is limited, try a “Completely Edible
Salad Bowl”. Choose a container with a fairly
wide top (it doesn’t need to be very deep),
and plant your favorite varieties of lettuce,
chives, parsley, peas, and Swiss Chard. Be sure
to include some edible flowers like calendula,
nasturtiums, and pansies. Keep in a convenient,
sunny location near the kitchen door is best,
and you can harvest fresh salad for many months.
With so many great vegetables to choose from,
there’s no reason not to grow winter vegetables.
And when the artichokes, asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries
and potatoes arrive at your Garden Center, it’s
a sign that spring is not too far behind.
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The
Emotional Benefits of Plants
|
The end of daylight
savings time starts the countdown: Halloween, The
Day of the Dead, Thanksgiving, the Winter Solstice,
Hanukah, Christmas- whew, no wonder we’re
a wreck by the New Year. With all the shopping,
cooking, visiting, and cleaning, we barely have
time to find the magic of the season, much less
garden.
Looking for a way to take the stress out of your
holidays? Or maybe you have a Grinch in your life.
Learn how plants can reduce stress, help with depression
and soothe the savage shopper. Scientists are now
discovering what we gardeners know instinctively
- Flowers trigger happy emotions, help us feel satisfied
and have a positive effect on social behavior.
* Published scientific studies are showing that
flowers have an immediate impact on happiness
and a long-term positive effect on our moods,
helping us with depression, anxiety and agitation.
* Senior citizens who receive a gift of flowers
not only feel less depressed, but score higher
on memory tests.
* The presence of flowers leads to more contact
with family and friends.
* Studies of inner cities have shown that residents
with trees and green spaces in common areas socialize
more often and feel a strong sense of community.
* Employees that have a view of nature from their
desk are more satisfied and healthy than their
windowless counterparts, who had a 23 % higher
rate of feeling ill.
* Workers with flowers and plants in their workspace
have improved creative and problem solving skills,
up to 15%.
Here are some good reasons to expose children
to gardening:
* Research has shown that contact with green,
natural settings relieves symptoms of Attention
Deficit Disorder.
* Inner city girls with a view of nature from
their home score higher on tests of self-discipline.
* Outdoor green spaces foster creative play and
child-adult interaction.
* Children reap the same benefits as adults from
flowers and plants: reduced stress and lowered
aggression.
Here at Wyntour Gardens we offer a variety of
ways to help you give the gift of emotional health.
Our Colorful Container Gardens, Completely Edible
Salad Bowls and our serene Bonsai are gorgeous
plants for home and gift giving. Or, make some
time for your own happiness by taking advantage
of our easy new gift card. If you have the wintertime
blues sign up for one of our fun and informative
hands-on workshops. Check our Events
Calendar for listings of upcoming classes.
To learn more about these studies check out these
links.
The Emotional Impact of Flowers, Jeanette Haviland-Jones,
Rutgers University
http://human-nature.com/ep/articles/ep03104132.html
The Human Environment Research Laboratory
www.herl.uiuc.edu
Kathleen Wolf’s research on human dimensions
of urban forestry.
http://www.cfr.washington.edu/research.envmind/
www.plantsatwork.org
|
Army
Worms - A Creepy Story
-or-
How Do I Fix My Lawn?
|
They came in the dark
of a warm summer night, attacking defenseless lawns
all over Shasta County. While we slept, unaware,
stealth moths deposited clusters of eggs in our
blue grass, fescue, and rye. Out of the mild humidity,
an army was born, several hundred worms per egg
cluster. It was only a matter of days before they
had chewed and cut each lawn to the root. They swarmed
on people’s decks, and even into homes. They
were coming back in hordes, faster than people could
sweep them away. Then, like an army in formation,
heading into battle, they marched onto the next
yard.
One day our lawns were beautiful, the next, one
small irregular spot. By day three there was total
decimation. We were helpless to do anything but
water judiciously and hope our lawns would come
back.
Early fall and spring are a time of recovery
for our worm ravaged neighborhoods. Lawns damaged
by insects may have to be renovated or completely
re-sown, to correct the problem. If you have a
few patches of dead lawn, renovation will probably
be enough. Here are the steps to take to
Do not use a pre-emergent prior to sowing your
seeds, as this will adversely affect the germination
of new lawn seed. Systemic weed killers with Glyphosate
such as Monterey
brand Remuda
can be used up to seven days before planting.
* If you have not de-thatched the problem areas
of your lawn, do it now. Water and pesticides
have a hard time penetrating the thatch layer
and thus, pests find protection. Aeration will
remove a thin or medium thatch layer. It may take
a thatching rake or vertical mower to remove thicker
thatches.
* Once the thatch is removed, mow the turf to
about ¾ of an inch high.
* Remove sod over any high or low spots so your
lawn is level.
* If your turf is patchy and thin after raking,
over-seed the lawn at half the recommended rate
for establishment. Prepare bare spots by turning
the soil, leaving a loose one inch layer for the
new roots to take hold. Remember to keep seed
bed consistently moist to ensure germination.
Spread seed evenly. Scotts Easy Hand-Held
Spreader is inexpensive and easy to use.
Your lawn will grow from remaining stems and crowns
in addition to the new grass seed. If your lawn
has more than a few brown patches and has not
recovered, you may need to completely re-seed
it.
* Decide which kind of lawn is best for your
area conditions. Here at Wyntour Gardens we have
four types of bulk lawn seed. Annual
Rye is a tough lawn that will
take traffic and stay hardy, though it does go
dormant and turn brown in the winter. California
Green is very hardy; it is the
Old Shasta mix that the feed stores used to sell.
Royal
Turf has softer, finer, blades
but it won’t hold up to kids and dogs. Sun
and Shade is sturdier and will
take some shade.
* Preparation is the key for starting a successful
lawn. Don’t just scrape the ground, break
up the compacted soil. If it is a large area use
a tiller. Rototillers can be rented from your
local rental center. Now is a great time to add
gypsum, such as Soilbuster,
which will help break up clay, provide primary
nutrients and improve soil drainage. Spread Master
Nursery brand, Master Start Fertilizer,
then till again, mixing the amendments into the
soil.
* Rake the soil to begin to level it out, removing
any rocks and debris that you find. To avoid problems
with excess water-runoff, make sure that any grading
you do allows water to flow away from your house.
* Finish leveling the soil by using a roller
filled with water. Like tillers, rollers can be
rented from a local rental center. Here at our
nursery, we loan out seeding rollers and water
filled rollers to our customers. Water the soil
lightly after leveling.
* Following the recommended seeding rate, spread
1/4 of the seed over the entire lawn area. Then
repeat times, each time using 1/4 of the seed.
However, each of the 4 times you distribute a
load of seed, push the spreader in a different
direction, to encourage even dispersal.
* Rake lightly, so as to cover the seed with
a thin layer of soil. Master
Nursery brand Paydirt,
a multi-purpose soil conditioner, makes a great
top dressing, as it is heavy enough to keep the
seed from blowing away.
* The seeds must be watered properly, in order
to germinate. Use just a fine spray, as you don't
want to create a flood! The soil should be kept
evenly moist, which means you must water several
times per day (depending on the weather). After
the grass blades sprout, you'll still need to
water a couple of times per day. If you know your
schedule won't permit this, now is the time to
look into automatic irrigation systems before
starting a new lawn.
Remember as you maintain your lawn that pesticides
kill both destructive and beneficial bugs. We
need the beneficial bugs to pollinate, prey on
destructive insects, and keep a general balance
to our gardens. Keep your lawn healthy, encourage
a balanced eco-system, and use pesticides only
when necessary. As always, if you have any questions
about you lawn our knowledgeable staff will be
happy to help. Call us at 530-365-2256.
|
|
ATTRACTING
BIRDS TO YOUR YARD |
| Providing nutrition
for wild birds is especially important in
the winter, when food is harder to find. Planning
a garden to welcome birds begins with observing
and noting which birds already frequent your
neighborhood or pass through seasonally.
Every species of bird has
particular preferences for food and shelter.
Know the favorites of the birds you wish
to attract. There are many books to help
identify birds. Sunset’s Attracting
Birds has excellent
section on birds & their preferences,
while Audubon field guides remain the classics
on American bird identification.
|
|
| All bird habitats must supply
the following: |
| Food
- Berries, fruits, nuts, nectar; seeds of
grasses, flowers, shrubs & trees, and
various insects (earthworms, caterpillars,
flies, aphids, mites) all provide nourishment
for birds. |
| Water
- Birds must have water for drinking and
bathing. Keep birdbaths clean, with fresh
water. If you live in an area where it gets
very cold, consider purchasing a heater
especially made for birdbaths, to keep the
water from freezing. |
| Shelter
& Cover - Birds need shelter
from the elements and from predators - from
shade to foliar canopies. In very cold areas,
needle-leafed evergreens are essential for
protection. Shrubs can provide sanctuary
from cats and dogs, while thorny shrubs
provide even greater protection from intruders.
A group of shrubs is optimal. |
Nesting
Sites - Birds use many different
styles of housing - on the ground; in grasses
or under foliage; at different heights in
shrubbery and trees; in and on different
parts of many structures.
|
|
|
| The greatest mix of bird species
occurs where two or more different habitats come
together in borders of mixed vegetation. For instance,
where a field joins a grove of willows, or a forest
opens into a meadow - tall trees giving way to shorter
ones, then merging into shrubbery. The goal as a
gardener is to create an arrangement of plants that
simulates these “edges”.
Diversity of plant species is the key to successful
landscaping for attracting birds. Plan your landscape
with lots of variety in height, types of plants,
flowers, pods, seeds, etc. Plan for succeeding
and overlapping seasons. In very cold climates,
be sure to include dense, needle-leafed evergreens.
Include a garden oasis, with shallow water for
bathing.
Create a hedgerow between yards or along roadways
using a fruiting hedge for a screen. Serviceberry,
blueberry, raspberry, elderberry, holly, hawthorn,
and rugosa roses are great hedge plants. When
pruning shrubbery, take care to not disturb bird
nests.
Do not use pesticides near birdscapes. Check
that no preservatives have been used in any commercially
prepared bird seeds.
There are many types of pre-made bird feeders and
bird houses available, suitable for different types
of birds. Research the birds you wish to attract,
and purchase the appropriate type of feeder and
seed. |
|
| There are many prepared mixes of
seeds and other bird foods available. |
| Black oil sunflower seed is
considered the best all-around food for attracting
the largest variety of songbirds. |
| Other favorites are sunflower
hearts, peanuts, other nutmeats, safflower seeds
or specially prepared seed mixtures. |
| Fresh & dried fruits are
enjoyed by many species, but take care that these
are fresh. Do not allow fruits or any bird food
to become moldy. |
Suet. Wild birds need very
high levels of fat to survive, and suet contains
the fats that birds need.
|
|
| Birds find food by sight. Initially,
place the feeder in a spot far enough out in the
yard to be visible to the birds, yet where it cannot
be reached by squirrels other predators. Once the
birds realize there is food available, and begin
to frequent your “bird oasis”, the feeder
can gradually be moved closer to the house to allow
for better viewing.
Consider your bird garden an ongoing project.
Let the birds rate your choices. Notice what works
well. Remember, it will take time for the birds
to discover and begin to use the habitat you’ve
created.
|
| Compost is a nutrient rich soil
amendment that fertilizes, conditions and improves
soil structure.
Fall is a perfect time to get a compost pile
started, because there is so much green matter
and leaves from garden cleanup.
Decomposition depends upon air, water, bacteria,
fungi and other microscopic organisms, as well
as larger organisms including earthworms, slugs,
spiders, ants and flies.
|
| GOOD FOR
COMPOSTING -
HEALTHY GARDEN CLIPPINGS |
| grass clippings |
| cut annuals, perennials, vegetables |
| leaves |
| kitchen veggie waste, including
egg shells, coffee grounds and unbleached paper
coffee filters |
weeds that do not have seed
pods
|
| DO NOT
USE: |
| Only use undiseased
matter. Discard any disease-infected clippings
in trash (any clippings with signs of mold, aphid,
other insect infestation, etc.) to avoid spreading
disease |
| greasy foods |
| cooked foods |
| meats, fish, cheeses |
| weeds that have gone to seed |
thorny branches (roses, blackberries)
|
| USEFUL TIPS
FOR SUCCESSFUL COMPOSTING: |
| MOST IMPORTANT NEEDS: AIR,
WATER |
| Add new ingredients in layers,
alternating wet/green with dry/brown. |
The smaller the pieces are
cut, the faster they will decompose.
Use chippers if possible. Shred piles of fallen
leaves with a lawn mower. |
| Use COMPOST STARTER or Achillea
(Yarrow) clippings to accelerate decomposition |
| Turn the pile often - bi-weekly
is optimal. Organisms need air to break down garden
clippings and kitchen refuse. Turning aerates
the pile, hastening the decay and ultimate breakdown
of composted materials. Use a fork to turn the
pile. |
| The compost pile needs to
stay moist but not wet - like the consistency
of a squeezed out sponge. If pile is very wet,
add sawdust to absorb excess water. |
| Your compost pile should smell
sweet and fresh. If it smells poorly, it is probably
not getting enough air. Turn more often, and add
dry, carbon-rich materials like dead leaves and
sawdust. |
| Rotted manure gets treated
as a wet/green material - it speeds decomposition. |
When adding high carbon ingredients
such as sawdust, wood shavings and ground bark,
also add additional nitrogen to the mix (grass
clippings).
|
| THE
COMPOST PILE should measure at least 3 feet
on all sides, so that it will generate enough heat
to decompose contents quickly. Maximum size: no
more than 6 feet high & wide. |
| |
| There are many types
of Compost Bins: |
| Rotating barrels - easy to
turn |
| Simple chicken wire structure |
| 3-box set-up made from new
or recycled wood or pallets |
| Garbage cans |
| Open piles |
| |
| Easy access to finished compost
is very important. Lids for keeping out excess moisture
are also useful. Weed
seeds and disease organisms will be destroyed
if the temperature of the compost pile reaches
150 - 160 degrees.
|
| COLD COMPOSTING |
| One can also make a compost
pile and leave it untended and unturned for up to
a year. It will slowly decompose but weed seeds
will not be killed. This is considered “cold
composting”, and is useful for large quantities
of leaves, grass clippings and other garden waste.
Cow manure, blood meal
& fresh grass clippings are high in nitrogen
and they speed decomposition.
When decomposition has completed,
sift the compost to remove any large matter that
has not decomposed completely. Return these materials
to the next pile.
Mix your new, nutrient rich compost
into flower and vegetable beds, or use as mulch.
|
USING
COVER CROPS TO IMPROVE YOUR SOIL |
| |
| Green manuring is the growing and
turning under of crops to fertilize and improve
the soil. It is a very old practice, with Chinese
gardeners using green manures for nearly 3,000 years.
The ancient Greeks and Romans also practiced green
manuring. |
| |
Cover crops, or green manure, are
one of the cornerstones of ecological agriculture.
They provide outstanding benefits for the soil &
future crops in the following ways: |
| Enrich the soil by increasing
organic matter content |
| Increase earthworms &
beneficial microorganisms |
| Increase the Nitrogen and
other minerals available to the plants |
| Stabilize the soil to prevent
erosion (victims of the recent fires should consider
using cover crops on their bare hillsides) |
| Provide habitat for beneficial
insects |
| Improve water, root &
air penetration in the soil |
| Increase soil’s moisture-holding
capacity |
| Choke out weeds |
| Break up subsoil |
| Reduce pests |
| Provide aesthetic value and
color |
| |
| Cover-crops are easy, more economical
and more environmental than applying chemical fertilizers.
It is essentially turning your entire garden into
an efficient compost pile.
The basic idea of cover-cropping is to plant
a field with a crop that will benefit the soil.
Planting this crop directly after the growing
season is over will help keep existing soil nutrients
from washing away during the winter.
The cover crop seed is broadcast on well-tilled
ground, then covered with a thin layer of soil.
It is especially important to keep the seed moist
when just planted, keeping the soil wet 1”-2”
below the seeding depth. Keep irrigated throughout
the growing season. The more growth ahe cover
crop makes in the Fall, the better. The crops
will continue to grow throughout the winter.In
spring, the cover crops are mowed down then tilled
back into the ground, roots and all. The best
time to till in the cover crop is when 50% of
the flowers are in bloom. It is important to till
the mowed crop into the soil as soon as possible,
because the green matter loses nitrogen and carbon
very rapidly if left exposed to the sun. If possible,
chop the crop for faster decomposition. The green
material is then allowed to decompose for a few
weeks in the soil, putting valuable nutrients
back into the soil. The breakdown process takes
10-21 days.
Legumes like alfalfa, clover, vetch, peas &
beans are excellent for cover cropping because
they build (or “fix”) Nitrogen in
the soil. Alfalfa is the best of the nitrogen-fixing
crops. Buckwheat and ryegrass are effective against
weeds, by growing so quickly that it soon overpowers
the weeds and chokes them out.
It is important to inoculate (or coat the seed),
to insure a high level of viable rhizobacteria
when the seed germinates. Rhizobacteria fixes
beneficial bacteria to rhizomes of legumes to
assist in the breakdown of plant residues and
convert them to humus for plant growth. An increase
in this organic matter maximizes the soils ability
to retain moisture, reducing run-off of moisture
and fertilizers due to erosion by wind and water.
Rhizobacteria naturally exists in the soil, but
not in sufficient amounts to maximize nitrogen
fixation.
If you are planting your first cover crop, we
suggest planting a seed mixture specially formulated
for the specific season (spring or fall), such
as our GREEN MANURE mix, consisting of Bell Beans,
Austrain Field Peas and Common Vetch.
If possible, test the soil prior to planting
to determine whether it is deficient in any specific
nutrients. A cover crop can then be selected which
can address the deficiencies.
Ideally, crops should be rotated after each season,
allowing for a fall/winter cover crop between
plantings.
|
|
| |
| |
Perennials
for Fall Planting |
| |
Fall is an excellent
time to plant perennials. The warm weather
gives roots time to establish before cold
sets in. Perennials are easy to plant, require
little care during the winter, and are good
filler for bare patches in the landscape.
When spring arrives, you will have a jump
on garden tasks, as some of the work will
already be done.
There are many species of hardy perennials
which will over-winter well in Shasta County.
The following list is a selection of plants
available at Wyntour Gardens: Aster
frikartii Monch.
Daisylike lavender-blue flowers; plants
3 feet tall. Sun.
Coreopsis. Daisylike flowers in yellow,
orange, maroon, or red. Full sun.
Delphinium (D. elatum). Tall spires
of flowers, mostly in shades of blue; some
strains have flowers in shades of raspberry
rose and lilac to deep violet. Giant Pacific
hybrids can reach 8 feet tall; Flue Fountains
grow 2 to 2 1/2 feet tall. All need rich,
porous soil. Sun.
Diascia. Low-growing plants with
coral, pink, or lavender flowers. Full sun
to partial shade.
Erigeron karvinskianus (Santa Barbara
daisy). Spreading evergreen perennial ground
cover grows 1 foot tall by 4 to 6 feet across.
White or pinkish daisy flowers appear all
year in mild climates. Reseeds. Sun or light
shade.
Gaillardia grandiflora (Blanket flower).
Daisylike flowers in shades of red and yellow
with orange or maroon bands. Sun.
Guara lindheimeri. Spikes of white
or pink blossoms that last for many months.
Full sun.
Lavender. Beautiful shrubby perennials
with spikes of bloom in shades of purple
to sky blue. French lavender (Lavandula
dentata) is an upright, rounded, evergreen
shrub 2 to 3 feet tall with highly fragrant
lavender flowers. Spanish lavender (L. stoechas)
grows 1 1/2 to 3 feet tall and bears showy
purple blooms in early summer. English lavender
(L. angustifolia) is the classic fragrant
lavender used to make potpourris and perfumes;
plants grow to 4 feet tall. All lavenders
need loose, fast-draining soil.
Nemesia fruticans. Vanilla-scented
lavender and pink or white flowers on a
bushy evergreen plant; frows to 1 foot tall.
(Zones 16-24 - does it grow here?)
Nepeta faassenii (Catmint). Spikes of
lavender-blue flowers on mounding plants
with gray-green foliage. Sun.
Penstemon (P. gloxinioides). Bush,
upright perennial 2 to 3 feet tall with
red tubular flowers along the stems. Apple
Blossom (pink), Firebird
(red), and Midnight (purple)
are particularly long-blooming varieties.
Sun.
Phygelius (Cape fuchsia). Shrubby
perennial with drooping, fuchsialike flowers
in pink, red, or pale yellow; to 4 feet
tall. Sun or light shade.
Salvia. Many kinds. Autumn sage (Salvia
greggii), a bushy evergreen shrub to 3 feet
tall, bears small flowers in many colors,
from white and yellow to orange and lipstick
red (depending on variety), late spring
to fall. Sun
Scabiosa Butterfly Blue
and Pink Mist). Lacy-looking,
1-inch-wide blue or pink flowers. Blooms
much of the year in mild climates. Full
sun.
Scaevola aemula. Low-sprawling plants
produce masses of lavender-blue flowers.
Full sun.
Verbena. Mostly ground cover plants
that thrive in heat. Homestead Purple
grows up to 18 inches tall and has large
(2-inch) purple flower heads. Varieties
of V. peruviana come in pink, purple, red,
and white, and stay 3 inches tall. Sun.
Achillea (Yarrow). Finely cut green
or gray leaves; flowers borne in flattish
clusters.
A. millefolium grows to 3 feet tall and
bears white flowers; hybrids have flowers
that range from red and rose to cream. A.
filipendulina (4 to 5 feet tall) has flowers
in shades of yellow. Sun.
|
| |
Amending
Clay Soil with Gypsum
|
Clay soil is easily identified
because it is hard! It
is so tightly compacted that little oxygen
is able to get through the soil particles.
Water is able to soak through, nutrients are
available to the roots, but there is no oxygen
which is critically needed for plants to survive.
Gypsum is the most basic soil amendment for
the clay soils of Shasta County.
Compacted soils can cause numerous problems
besides stunted growth or death of large plants
and trees. Moss and algae may appear. Results
of compacted/clay soils usually show within
six months to one year after planting.
The soil particles need to be separated to
allow for free flow of oxygen, nutrients and
water. Gypsum does this.
Good soil provides plant roots with aeration
as well as retention of water and nutrients.
Folks tend to forget the importance of oxygen
in the three necessities of healthy root growth
- water, nutrients, and oxygen. In root growth,
keep in mind the root tip needs to be able
to move through the soil looking for water
and oxygen. Small hairs on the roots absorb
the nutrients. What does gypsum
do?
Gypsum is calcium phosphate. When added to
the soil, gypsum helps to break up the soil
particles allowing movement of particles stuck
together, allowing air and water to penetrate
and reach those deep roots looking for oxygen
or air, water and nutrients.
It is best to cultivate the soil as deeply
as possible before adding gypsum, then add
the gypsum in the proportions specified on
the package, and cultivate again, mixing it
in as thoroughly as possible. Water thoroughly
before planting. It is best to wait at least
24 hours before planting to give the gypsum
time to work. You will find that in a short
time your soil is much more friable (breaks
apart easily, rather than sticking together),
and is easier to handle. Gypsum can be added
to the soil any time planting is done.
Think of the hole you are digging for your
new plant as a pot without a hole, with no
where for the roots to go once they reach
the edge of the pot. This is why it is important
to dig the hole two to three times as deep
and wide as the root ball. Remember to add
some gypsum at the bottom of the hole, to
open up the soil so the roots can penetrate
the hard clay. Then add a mixture of 50% existing
soil mixed with 50% good planting mix around
the root ball to fill the hole. Be sure to
water thoroughly, making sure the entire root
ball is completely saturated.
We have several excellent gypsum products
available at the nursery. |
| |
Why
and When to Use Dormant Sprays |
| |
| Most deciduous plants
undergo a period when their growth process
greatly slows down. For many plants, this
coincides with the onset of winter, as days
grow shorter, and temperatures grow colder.
You can recognize when the plant is dormant,
by the leaves falling from the trees or shrubs.
This is the time
to apply dormant sprays to fruit trees and
roses, to help control various forms of
fungus and disease (including black spot,
peach leaf curl and many blights), and insects
such aphids, whitefly, spider mites, scale
and mealybug, which can devastate your plants
when the weather grows warmer. The chemicals
in the dormant sprays will not affect the
fruit at this time, since the sap is barely
flowing through the trees.
For pest control, fruit
trees should be sprayed with Dormant Oil
once each year, during December. Master
Nursery Pest Fighter Year-Round Spray Oil,
Lilly Miller Superior Type Spray Oil, Monterey
Saf-T-Side, and Neem Oil are
a sampling of the Dormant Oils we recommend
for your deciduous plants.
For disease, it is most
effective to spray Fruit Trees and Roses
three times: Thanksgiving, Christmas and
Valentine’s Day. Copper Sulfate products
are recommended for fruit trees, and Lime
Sulfur is best for fruit trees. Lilly
Miller Polysul Dormant Spray, Lilly Miller
Microcop Fungicide (comes
with container of Sta-Stuk “M”
for better adherence) and Monterey
Liqui-Cop are all effective
products for disease control.
There are also products
that enhance Dormant Spray application.
Spray Grip helps spray
adhere to branches. Signal is a colorant
to be mixed with sprays so you can see where
it has been applied.
In addition to the products
mentioned above, Wyntour Gardens carries
a wide selection of other products to benefit
the overall health of your plants, as well
as to address specific problems. Our staff
are extremely knowledgeable, and are happy
to answer your questions regarding amendments
and overall gardening products. Also, refer
to the George’s
Almanac section of this website
for more information and specific Fall gardening
suggestions. |
| |
Poison
Oak
(Rhus diversiloba and Rhus toxicodendron)
|
| |
One of the most widespread
and troublesome of all pest plants, this woody
perennial inflicts a high toll of suffering
every year, especially during the summer months.
Rhus diversiloba
is a shrub or sometimes a vine climbing to
about 8 feet high. It is native from British
Columbia to California. Rhus Toxicodendron
is a low shrub, native from New Jersey to
Tennessee and southern Missouri and southwards
to Mississippi and Florida. Poison ivy (Rhus
radicans) and Poison sumac (Rhus
vernix) are closely related to
poison oak, and are equally toxic and nasty.
The leaves of poison oak are divided into
three distinct leaflets, either elliptical
or oval in shape. Green leaves turn brilliant
orange to red in the fall. In May and June,
clusters of greenish flowers bloom from the
centers of the leaves. The flowers are followed
by round, green to tan fruit containing seeds.
New plants sprout from the seeds as well as
from creeping, underground stems.
Poison oak prefers dry areas with poor, sandy
soil. It is frequently found in wooded lots,
along roadways, in yards and non-crop areas.
Poison oak is known for the irritating rash
caused by the oily sap found in all parts
of the plant. The greatest irritations occur
in the spring when the sap is flowing freely.
However, rashes can develop if the plant is
contacted at any time of the year. Irritations
develop after direct contact with the plant,
by contact with contaminated clothing, tools,
pet hair, or smoke from burning plants.
Contact causes inflammation and swelling of
the skin, followed by intense irritation,
itching and blisters. Often the skin breaks,
the liquid escapes, and scabs or crusts form.
Symptoms may appear from 12 to 24 hours after
contact, although it varies from a few hours
to several days. Some persons are apparently
more susceptible than others, and in serious
cases, medical attention is advised. Also,
contact with the plant at different times
of the year may result in varying degrees
of infection and skin irritation.
CONTROL: Do not hand-pull
or burn poison oak plants. Any pieces
of root left behind will sprout into new plants.
The oil also remains potent on clothing for
up to two years. When burned, the oil vaporizes
and the smoke causes skin, eye, and lung irritations.
Herbicides are the safest way to rid an area
of poison oak. We have found the following
products to be most effective: Monterey
Brush Buster, Lily Miller Blackberry &
Brush Killer and Bayer All-in-One Weed Killer.
In large areas, poison oak can
be controlled by mowing close to the ground
in midsummer followed by plowing or harrowing,
or by grazing sheep or goats. For smaller
patches, the roots may be dug out, taking
extreme care not to let the plant come in
contact with skin. Wearing long sleeves and
leather or vinyl gauntlet gloves (available
at Wyntour Gardens) are essential for such
a project. Smothering the roots under heavy
black plastic or cardboard can also be effective,
especially in areas where it is difficult
to mow, such as under trees.
Place dead plants in plastic bags and tie
securely. Discard bags, gloves, and any other
products and clothing which may have come
in contact with the plants. Soaking affected
clothing in water with a small amount of ammonia
is useful in removing the oil from the fabric.
If contact with poison oak is known or suspected,
immediate lathering with a strong alkali soap
(Lava) with frequent rinsing can prevent inflammation
and blistering. The alkali soup emulsifies
the oil and, by thorough rinsing, this may
remove the oil from the skin.
Applying a drying agent such as rubbing alcohol
or a solution of baking soda and water are
also effective measures.
Several over-the-counter products are available,
should you happen to contact poison oak. |
| |
SCARECROWS
- Guardians of the Crops |
| Scarecrows are an ancient
art form. They have been used for more than
3,000 years, in cultures all over the world,
scaring the birds away from crops to insure
a complete harvest. Native American tribes
throughout North America used scarecrows or
human bird scarers to protect their crops.
Scarecrows were
extremely popular in fields and Victory
Gardens across America during the Great
Depression of the 1930’s. After WWII,
when farming became big business and chemical
sprays were used on a large scale, scarecrows
became less used.
Yet Scarecrows really work!
It’s important to put scarecrows out
as soon as crops are planted, to keep the
birds from eating the newly planted seeds.
Scarecrows also celebrate
the beauty and tranquility of fall and add
charm and whimsy to yard and garden. They
can be serious, scary and downright funny.
They tend to look like people, yet cats
and large, scary birds are also popular.
Scarecrows can be made of many different
materials, though are mostly made of clothing
stuffed with straw. Often the faces are
made from pumpkins or gourds.
In the late 1800’s,
Zuni children in the American Southwest
has contests to see who could make the most
unusual scarecrow. Today, Scarecrow Contests
remain a popular activity in communities
across the US.
Other things to use to keep
birds away are: inflatable scarecrows, shiny
streamers (these work great for grapes),
old CD’s hanging on fishing line,
motion activated sprinklers (for larger
animals), bird netting, flags, cans on strings,
noisemakers.
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